91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems

I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub assembly on my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.

Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:

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I removed the circlip / snap-ring.

Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it splines onto the axle shaft and also the axle)

Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on schematic).

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Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It has

4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.

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I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic) which is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess I'll have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.

However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it existed as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is the schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?

Thanks for any assistance guys.

Reply to
Dave Milne
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That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing. I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so I'll have to smack it with an impact driver.

Dave

schematic).

Reply to
Dave Milne

Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized socket.

Jeremy

Reply to
Jeremy Hupe

Impact driver won't move it - damn that thing is on tight. I'll have go with a steel punch tomorrow, but it is looking like a drill and chisel job.

It also looks seriously chewed on the face - probably due to the absence of that spring.

Dave

Reply to
Dave Milne

I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was advertised for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement locknut that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see from the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't pop out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try, but I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.

Dave

Reply to
Dave Milne

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Bill, Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.

Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.

The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a couple times"

If you look in my link (

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) youwill see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw driversand hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (compare it to the one in your link
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. Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver on the socket, and I hit it hard.

btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in the "axle nut washer" ?

Dave

Reply to
Dave Milne

You are just going to have to get a bigger hammer. Seriously! You need a BFH to get it started, it looks to be friction spun to the point of crushing the bearing cage. A 2.5 or even a 5lb BFH comes to mind.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:

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Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
mike92105

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Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Got it off with a BGF and a steel punch. It was on so tight, that it died a horrible death rather than unscrew:

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The last piece of the 4 hung on so tenaciously, that it required a chisel.

Will continue tomorrow (it gets fully dark at 4pm here and starts getting dark about 3:15pm). I suspect the hub thread might be chewed, but I'll wait until I've got the whole thing off and cleaned. I wouldn't count on being able to get another hub inside 2 weeks ; probably a special order from the US or DCs Belgian warehouse.

Dave Milne

Reply to
Dave Milne

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

There's a thought. I've a friend that can locate 2 complete waggy axles, but it isn't looking that bad so far :-)

Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

Reply to
Dave Milne

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Fortunately the spindle was ok. The threads on the end were a bit worn, but a few turn on- turn offs of the lock nut sorted that out. The Haynes manual says tighten the inner locknut to 50 lb/ft ???? Surely this is nonsense ??. I tightened it until the slack was gone, same as you tighten any other taper-roller bearing, i.e about hand tight. As far as I can tell the problem was due to the drive cog being put on backwards, and scuffing the lock nut. I also think the outer locknut came loose. The timken bearings seemed fine, so I just repacked them with moly grease, and replaced the seal. If slack develops, I can always put in the new bearings later. I'm going to need a new drive cog.

Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

Reply to
Dave Milne

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Well, I rotated the hub while I tightened the inner locknut to ensure it was seated properly. No play, and a lot less than 50lb/ft on it. The outer locknut is tightened to 50 lb/ft. as specified.

Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

Reply to
Dave Milne

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

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