94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky

So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes

3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in the system.

One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil stain traces back to where it meets the tranny.

Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the master/slave cylinder.

Reply to
mr_man
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Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that apprently is the bleed access.

Reply to
Jerry McG

Reply to
Will Honea

Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!

BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. These units don't seem to fail very often.

Reply to
Jerry McG

i had the same problem with the leak between the oil pan and tranny... replace the oil pan gasket, and you should be good to go. it was really cheap at like a bumper to bumper... don't forget the gasket sealer.

good luck, bobbyg

Reply to
bobbyg2004

That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line anyway.

Reply to
Will Honea

I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & bled.

Reply to
Jerry McG

Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Reply to
Will Honea

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure it ought to be flushed.

Reply to
Jerry McG

That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check ?

I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed.

Reply to
Will Honea

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