brake and turn signal

I have a funny one;

'79 cj5:

when I hit the brake pedal, the driver side brake light doesn't come on.

the driver side turn signal seems to work.

the passenger side turn signal makes both driver and passenger side (in the back) flash (not in the front)

any real obvious cause for this? like a broken flasher?

thx,

Ron

Reply to
csdude
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punk frauds a broken flasher except when the ladies saw his little one inch wiener they all laughed

csdude wrote:

Reply to
Jeep America #1

Keep in mind the brake lights go through the turn signal switch. I'd be looking real close at the turn signal switch & it's connector & wiring.

I've also seen strange things happen when the hazzard switch gets stuck somewhere between all the way on and all the way off. Those old switches can get sloppy or sticky.

Reply to
bllsht

ok, what's the 'connector' 'block' that is mounted on the steering column about half way down?

I bumped it off while work> Keep in mind the brake lights go through the turn signal switch. =A0I'd

Reply to
csdude

Yup , that seems to be the one

when I push the turn signal handle up (towards the steering wheel), the brakes don't work, if I push it down (towards the pedals) it does. Same thing with the turn signal.

looks like a wire gets p> Keep in mind the brake lights go through the turn signal switch. =A0I'd

Reply to
csdude

when I push the turn signal handle up (towards the steering wheel), the brakes don't work, if I push it down (towards the pedals) it does. Same thing with the turn signal.

looks like a wire gets p> Keep in mind the brake lights go through the turn signal switch. I'd

If the connector came apart, check to make sure you didn't bend a pin when you put it back together.

Reply to
Old Crow

(please don't top post...)

I'd say switch (contacts), not wire pinching. Pinching is almost always a short (to ground) that will blow a fuse.

Reply to
PeterD

If you don't want folks to top post, clean up the post before you hit the "send" button.

Top or bottom, who cares. :shrug:

K

---------- "PeterD" wrote (please don't top post...)

I'd say switch (contacts), not wire pinching. Pinching is almost always a short (to ground) that will blow a fuse.

Reply to
Kate

Hi Karen,

Same here, I don't care either way , for decades no one did. Besides we're Jeep people, we don't always play by the rules, do we?

anyway, I think that after 30 years the turn signal switch probably is having a little arthritis. the part is relatively cheap, but it's quite a bit of work to get it into the steering column I believe

Ron

Reply to
csdude

[snip]

My Chilton's manual has a pretty good page on R/Ring the late 70s/early

80s signal light switch. Briefly, leaving out a lot of small steps:

Get the horn button off, it either pulls straight off or rotates and pulls off.

Remove the nut, pull the wheel with a puller.

Using a lock-plate depressing tool, depress the lock plate and pry out the snap ring around the steering shaft, then remove the lock plate. It will look like you can do it without the tool, but you'll just waste your afternoon trying. Rent the damned tool. Be aware that at some point GM went from SAE to Metric threads.

Remove the 4-way flasher button. Mine (1979) has a threaded shaft and simply screws out, Chilton says that some others push in, turn to release.

The signal switch is held in with a few screws.

There's going to be some miscellaneous parts between here and there, washers, shims, springs. Lay everything out on a towel in the order and orientation that it came out, and don't put it someplace where you'll trip over it or knock it over.

You might find that you'll have to fiddle with the outer tube on the column to get the wiring harness out and back in. Don't pry on it. On mine the upper tube is plastic, the lower one steel. You might have to disconnect the rod that connects the ignition key up by the wheel to the ignition switch down on the column behind the dash and remove a few hex-head screws at the top of the column before you can move the tube far enough to pass the harness.

When you pull the old harness out, consider attaching a bit of safety wire to fish the new one back in. The end of the switch harness is clipped into a bracket on the upper right side of the column, under the dash. It just pulls out, the connector is keyed to fit only one way. The replacement will have more wires than your harness will connect to and will mate up to empty slots on the connector. They aren't important.

I did my switch while the column was out, and it was fairly simple. Trying to do it in place, without pulling the ignition switch, will be more interesting.

Reply to
Lee Ayrton

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