Cherokee lift question

OK... Dumb question but I haven't found any specs anywhere that state what I am looking for.. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Limited.. It has a

3 inch Block lift in the rear end and a EZ ride spring lift in the front end runnning on 31's. Anyhow the front end has a good 2 inches more wheel well clearance than the rear end. IE the rear end seems a bit low... I have kept my eye open and see that some lifted Cherokees have this difference in the front and rear end and some do not.. My question is is it normal for it to have that much differance? If not I

plan on fabricating some Extended Leaf spring mounts to iradicate the block lift while using stock springs to keep the smoother ride... Comments? Ideas? etc :).. Thanks for all of your help

Reply to
gett'nintothejeepthing
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Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

The only add a leaf options I have found are 2 inch additions.. Know where I can find a 3 inch add a leaf to add to my current leaf springs so that I can get away from the blocks and level out my ride?

Reply to
gett'nintothejeepthing

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

I think you would be better off buying a completely new lift kit. the Rubicon Express 3.5" 'Super Ride' kit includes full new rear leaf spring packs (to eliminate those blocks), new front coil springs, new front lower control arms, rear brake line, sway bar end links and a few other odds n ends. It's about $700 shipped to your door.

I installed the above mentioned kit on a 91 XJ I had and I loved the kit. The ride was very nice and cushy, the rear was about 1/2" higher than the front, and it performed well.

IMO, re-arching is a waste of money for a 4-wheel drive application. Add-a-leaves can make the ride incredibly stiff, even the full legnth AAL's. Re-arching and AAL's will sag after a year.

HTH.

Carl

Reply to
Carl

Contact a professional Spring Shop, a city of any size should have a couple they can calculate what you need to get your ride leveled out safely.

Search your local yellow pages for "auto truck springs"

What I mean by a professional shop is when you stop by at 9AM you will be entering a building that was at its cleanest while under construction 100 years ago.

The walls will be covered with tools on hooks you have never seen before and many are home made.

You will be greeted, eventually, by the boss who is the cleanest guy there and he looks like he lost a wrestling match in the grease pit with a bear.

All the mechanics there will be sporting headgear advertising heavy trucks, chewing tobacco or farm machinery

The customer waiting area will be supplied with the best seating Chevrolet offered in 1972 and you will have a 13 inch black and white TV for entertainment.

Reply to
billy ray

It sounds like you visited my house before i got married.

Reply to
Stupendous Man

What about going with stock springs and building the Leaf spring mounts down the 3+ inches of lift.. wouldn't this give a smoother ride while stil providing the travel needed.. BTW I intend to break my jeep a few times as soon as the snow melts :).. If you are in Utah hit me up :)

Reply to
gett'nintothejeepthing

modifying the mounts is a bad idea. Try to keep the factory mounts as factory as possible. There is a lot of lateral stress going on there, and I can only image the horrible efects of one of your home-made mounts tearing off at highway speeds because of the added leverage the spring would have on the mount.

Carl

Reply to
Carl

Ok.. So in short go to a "Spring Guy" tell him what I want and just get a new set of leaf springs to replace the blocks and springs I have now and I am on my way..

Reply to
gett'nintothejeepthing

I think this is both the best and safest idea.

Reply to
billy ray

Buying just the new rear springs will run you about $300. The Rubicon stuff is top-notch quality and rides excellent. I'd encourage you to check out

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and look at the different options you have. You can also buy just the leaf springs from Rubicon, rated at 3.5" of lift.

HTH

Carl

Reply to
Carl

I jusy had my Superduty's brakes serviced at this shop. :-)

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

I am assuming your mechanic had a full set of teeth. were they in his mouth or pocket?

There are some prices listed on the wall that were last updated when Nixon was in office.... as Vice President.

Reply to
billy ray

I think if you combined all the mechanics you'd get a full set of teeth.

No price list on the wall at all, but they do have a "Complaint Department-Take a Number" display with the number 1 attached to the pin of a hand grenade.

And the smoking section in the waiting room *is* the waiting room. And the shop floor, for that matter. The "waiting room" is really a formality, as there is no place to actually wait...there's one chair and they're using that for a computer stand. Haven't the slightest idea what they use that computer for. I supposed you could sit on the larger part cartons or the stack of tires in the middle of the floor.

But, they actually do good work for a reasonable price, and are very busy...open 7am-10pm 7 days, and they always have a full load. Norm, the owner, is one of those guys who can diagnose the problem by ESP. I've taken all my work there that I can't or don't want to do myself due to lack ot expertise or time.

Only problems I've had is when I was dealing with someone other than Norm, no one else wants to make a decision. I dropped my truck off for brakes on a Friday, and made the mistake of saying I wasn't in a hurry for it, as long as it's done by next Tuesday...the mechanic (not Norm) seemed to think I said wait till spring to start on it. By Wednesday it wasn't begun, but once I called Norm it was finished that day.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

The local paint shop has a sign on the wall to the effect they don NOT call

911. It is hanging next to a silhouette target filled with holes from Dan's .45 Long Colt.

Reply to
billy ray

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