Early-95 YJ clutch question

Dealer will only sell you the assembly. I found the separate cylinders at Advanced Auto, finally. The plastic hose between the cylinders has a push-in connector on the ends. A small roll pin goes through the mount on the cylinder to hold th hose in - fits the little indentation in the hose connector. To bleed it, you loosen a small hex screw down on the slave. I had the best result by removing the slave cylinder so I could get at it easily. I rotated it so that it pointed straight down (that lets an air in the cylinder rise to the top where the bleed screw is). I had the wife up top pouring brake fluid into the master and letting it run down until I got a steady stream of fluid out of the bleed. Closed the bleed, worked the pedal (slow down stroke, then take you foot off) until I got no more air. Reinstalled the slave and it's been solid since. The fork can fall off the pivot ball, but it's hard to do and you will have major problems - hard to miss.

Just a question....

Does it help to double clutch?

Help what? If it's bad syncros in the tranny, maybe. If it's clutch throw, nope. With 83K I would have replaced the clutch disc at least, probably the whole clutch, while I had the tranny out and called it normal maintainance, especially if I had no idea of the history of the Jeep. At 80k or so, you are likely at least half way through the clutch life even with a good driver and it goes down fast from there.

One other possibility comes to mind. You said synthetic fluid - WHICH synthetic and what weight? Depending on what the put in, it might be worth your time to drain it and fill it with Redline specifically made for trannies - some body want to help here: Redline MT???

It's only when sitting still that gives me problems coming out of gear, and I've also noticed that this only seems to happen in first or reverse.

I only had a problem going in to first or reverse on the trail in

4-low (and sometimes, engaging another gear and then shifting to first or reverse, all while sitting still, helps). 2WD on the street, I very rarely have a problem with any gear. And in either case, once it's moving everything works fine.

I forgot to mention -- I did have a new Rhino-Pac clutch kit installed also, at the same time as the transmission.

Good question on the fluid, I don't remember what was used... I will find out.

By the way, I am very fast between gears, do I need to slow down my shifting to let the syncros engage (will fast shifting hurt them)?

Thanks again!

I did warp a transmission on my 86 Firebird due to fast shifting (2.8L V6, 5 speed).

But if you are having trouble at a stand still getting into or out of reverse or first gear, you may have a bad throw-out bearing. My mechanic told me once that if you can't get it into gear the first try, let the clutch up and put it back down again. If you can now get it into gear, it is probably the throw-out bearing.

But if you can't get it into first or reverse gear, try putting it into 3rd before putting it into 1st, or 5th before reverse. According to the same mechanic if this helps this signifies bad syncros. (at least on GM 5 speeds)

I bled the hydraulics this evening and everything seemed to work much more smoothly during the short one-mile test drive... I'll try this out for a while and see how it goes.

Thank you Mr. Honea, Mark12211, and Mr. Hughes III, for your help!

I think it is definitely either the master or slave cylinder, as I can feel the pressure sag when I hold the clutch pedal, sometimes I have to hit it twice to get in gears, and I get different pressure just about every shift. I'm going to swap them out; any tips on how the roll pin comes out?

Thanks!

If you can maneuver the hole to where you can get at it you can probably tap it out with a small pin punch but don't bang away too hard or you'll break something plastic. Be patient - use light taps.

There is a tool to do this bit I made a piece that clips over an old pair of pliers. It has a pin (actually a nail) thru it and goes into a hole on the other jaw that is maybe twicwe the diameter of the pin. Of course not every one has access to a milling macine so this may be abit hard - just tap it out and use a pair of large pliers to put it back in. The hole goes all the way thru the socket.