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XJ clutch not disengaging completely

Hi,

I have a '98 XJ with 187k miles on it. Ever since I got it 8 months ago, the clutch has been hitting the floor when fully depressed. Now, it often doesn't shift as smoothly as it used to. (Pops out fine, but doesn't go into next gear as easily.) It's always had a longer clutch spin down time than other cars I've had, but until now I thought that might be normal.

The part that seems strange to me, is that it isn't very consistent. Sometimes, if I take too long moving through neutral, it will make noise when I put it in reverse. Other times, I can put it in neutral, release the clutch, press the clutch, wait a few seconds, and put it in neutral without any noise. So sometimes the clutch will spin down in a few seconds, and other times it spins up when it should be disengaged.

Any idea what could be causing this?

The fluid reservoir is filled to the top, and has been since I got it.

Another thing is that it is sometimes a bit shaky when starting from a stop, but it only seems to happen if the engine is spinning slower than

1krpm while engaging the clutch.

Is there anything worth trying that doesn't involve removing the transmission? Is it worth bleeding the hydraulic system? Everything else the Haynes manual suggests involves taking appart the clutch, which I don't think I'm comfortable doing yet.

Thanks, Ivan

Reply to
Ivan Jager
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A '98 will have an external slave cylinder, which can be removed without taking out the transmission. It would be a simple matter to replace the master and the slave too. If you bleed the hydraulic system it may help too. I recommend doing the cheapest thing first (bleed the system) when you don't know what is going on.

The clutch is supposed to hit the floor when fully depressed. The other symptoms don't sound normal though.

Cheers,

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

What Earl said about the external slave cylinder. Change both master and slave, bleed the system.

Change the tranny fluid also. If the old tranny fluid is the least bit milky or green, c> A '98 will have an external slave cylinder, which can be removed without

Reply to
RoyJ

How do I check/change the tranny fluid?

Ivan

Reply to
Ivan Jager

I would first check the tranny fluid out for water or not enough. The wrong kind of fluid can also affect the syncros.

Jeep didn't put a high water vent line on the tranny like they did for the T-case and diffs so it is kinda usual to find them full of water and mud...

Mike

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Reply to
Mike Romain

Do I need to remove the slave cylinder in order to bleed the system? I was expecting there to be place to attach a hose, and some sort of valve, but it's just a black plastic cylinder. There's a small bit of plastic sticking out the top, but it didn't feel like it was anything useful.

BTW, I've never bleed a hydraulic system before.

Ivan

Reply to
Ivan Jager

that bit should be a zerk fitting.

This should get you going.

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Reply to
DougW

You sure that the slave cylinder isn't aluminum? Anyway, older versions had a small port just forward of the hose. It was basically a hole with a screw you loosened off. The last two replacement slaves I've looked at still had the threaded part but no hole through to the inside so they had no bleed capability.

With the external slave, there really is no need for a bleed port - the clutch master has no residual pressure like a brake master and air will just bubble up the hose. Sounds good, but if the slave has a slant to the rear (parked uphill) you can get a small bubble trapped in it. On a new slave, I like to bleed it before I bolt it in. Hold the slave with the rod down, push the rod all the way into the cylinder. Release slowly. Check the master for fluid, then repeat 2-3 more times. No more air. Install the slave and you're done.

Reply to
Will Honea

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