Exhaust Manifold Recommendation

Hey folks,

I need to replace the exhaust manifold on my 99 TJ. What is the best recommendation from those that have been there/done that? Looking on ebay and searching the web I see a wide range of units available.

Thanks!

Jerry S.

Reply to
Jerry Slaughter
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Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

I bit the bullet and replaced it with a header on my '99. Good excuse for an upgrade, and I got a good deal on a Thorley.

Dave

Reply to
David C. Moller

Hi Jerry, You do not say what kind of condition your exhaust manifold is in. My

97 TJ is only now starting to hiss and I am looking at a POR Fire Sealant 2000 produtct
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Ijust recieved the catalog in the mail and wa looking at the rust paintthat I have read good things about but I have not heard anything aboutthis 'exhaust patch'. In any event, it's down & dirty (read that aschaep) only $15, but I like Bill's $135 product also - depends on yourcash flow and the condition of your manifold.Good Luck, Steve Hey, has anyone heard anything about this Fire Sealant 2000? It's suppose to handle 2000 degees - huppe or a good product?
Reply to
popeyeball

While I have not visually verified the extent of damage to my manifold, but I have all of the classic symptoms. The exhaust noise is loud from the front, I get a "popping" backfire upon deceleration (more when the engine is warm) and a strong smell of exhaust coming from the front of the jeep, especially when the windows are down. It has been a progressive issue for the last few months, but I have been holding off until the warmer weather set in so I could do the job more comfortably.

I'm a little worried about the condition of the exhaust studs. They have a significant layer of rust on them and I am concerned about them breaking when I remove the manifold. I may go ahead and buy a set of replacements and an ez-out to have on hand when I do the job. I will also soak them overnight with penetrating oil before I start.

Any other hints?

Thanks!

Reply to
Jerry Slaughter

Jerry Slaughter did pass the time by typing:

I was woried about my ZJ but the bolts all came out with a crecent wrench. (pb blaster overnight probably didn't hurt)

If you do get one that siezes try more PB blaster on the threads and tap the end lightly with a hammer/drift to break the crud loose.

Remember, clean both the head and manifold. Don't leave any carbon traces on the head (a scotch brite pad works good) Bits of sock/papertowel will help keep crud from falling down the exhaust port. ALthough for the most part that's only going to be carbon flakes from the exhaust port.

Reply to
DougW

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Lord I hope its not that bad...I'll be sure to take a couple of pics as I go. Thanks for all the feedback.

Jerry S.

Reply to
Jerry Slaughter

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Yups, that popping backfire sound is what finally made me get off my ass and replace mine. Only hint I can give you is to get a swivel socket or whatever it's called. The angles to the studs can be kind of tough. All of mine came out with no breakage.

Dave

Reply to
David C. Moller

I believe you are talking about a 'wobbler' extension. They are great and allow the wrench to be off center.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Those don't work on manifolds Bill. He is talking the 'wobbler' extension that lets the wrench and extension come in on an angle.

A normal extension has a square end, like |_|. A wobbler has a curved end like this (_).

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

LOL! I know, but if you push on them so the socket stays seated they hold fine. I get a bit paranoid about losing knuckles too....

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Yes David, it was supposed to be lose.

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

After replacing my CPS I too thought I had a cracked exhaust, then I noticed a hairline crack in the hard vacuum line that connects from the firewall to the carb, a little heat shrink and she's running better than ever. Just in case you might want to check.

Reply to
mike92105

It is definately the exhaust manifold....Completely cracked at the "Y" where the 2 down pipes are welded together. I have taken a few pics so far, will post them tonight after I clean up.

Haven't finished the removal yet...need some advice.

I have all of the fuel injection off, all of the connectorss, etc...I have all of the top manifold bolts off and the two lower end nuts. I'm having a hard time getting at the remaining lower bolts. Any helpful suggestions? It looks difficult to get to from below, my arms are just too big, and I can't seem to get a good angle from above.

If you would reply to me direct that would be great. Also copy it here in case someone else needs this info.

Thanks!

Jerry S. snipped-for-privacy@hiwaay.net

Reply to
Jerry Slaughter

Jerry Slaughter did pass the time by typing:

I had to remove the PS pump and intake box then squeeze my hand between the block and exhaust manifold. Used a crecent wrench to get the bolt out.

(posted and mailed)

Reply to
DougW

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