Fan Cluth for 1988 Jeep Wrangles 1988

Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175 pond feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan clutch of which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick in at

165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with AC the three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It still runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing very well and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.

Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

Reply to
nvrpc
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Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

I wrote off to Hayden and asked them for the part number of the clucth I desired. I hope to get an answer today sometime.

On their web site these describe that the fan when cold should upon starting of the engine begine to turn very fast as if it was locked up and then slow down. My fan does not do that at all. It seems to always be moving the same speed regardless of engine RPM or temperature. I would prefer if it was locked up all of the time, but I will settle for lock up at 160 degrees.

Wish me luck and if you have any more ideas or sugestions please let me know. Especially if there is a brand name preferance.

Thanks

Reply to
nvrpc

nvrpc did pass the time by typing:

The fan is always going to turn at close to engine speed. What is different is the amount of torque coupled to the fan through the fluid clutch.

The Mk-I eyeball is not capable of seeing this but if you have a timing light/strobe you can.

Testing the fan clutch requires a thermometer, timing/strobe light, and a bit of cardboard. You put the thermometer between the fan and radiator to measure temp, use the cardboard to block off the radiator (engine heats faster) then note at what temperature the fan speed changes. Remove the cardboard and note the temp when the fan slows down.

In my experience when a fan clutch goes the fan has almost zero turning resistance when cold or hot or is solidly locked up/rusted and has a scraping sound when you turn it.

Cold - medium resistance Warm - low resistance Hot - high resistance

Reply to
DougW

Holy crap!

Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?

They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.

Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.

All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too long and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess having no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.

The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.

A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you watch the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on spinning, the clutch is toast.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nvrpc wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)

But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.

I might po> Holy crap!

Reply to
Roy J

Ahh, read that wrong....

Mike

Roy J wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

How about one of those non thermals to run the fan at engine RPM all of the time?

Any thoughts on that.

Reply to
nvrpc

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