Freeing Muffler - Grand Wagoneer

Can you get an air-chisel at it?

PB Blaster takes a day or so to work. Give it some time.

Generally you don't want to re-use muffler clamps. I just cut them off with an angle grinder or cut them with a torch.

If the muffler pipe overlaps the cat pipe you can simply grind a notch in the muffler pipe, that should be enough to get it loose. Try to avoid the BFH because that can break up the cat.

If the muffler pipe is in the cat pipe then heat is a good option. Heat the pipe then spray some water on the muffler side to cool that down.

If things get too short they make little 2" pipe extenders. Your local AutoZone, Pepboys, or NAPA will have them. Best to weld them on or use a clamp till you get it to a shop that will weld them for you.

I can't but I could split the old muffler pipe with a cold chisel, if necessary--probably a time-consuming job, but it would probably work.

Thanks again!

Doug--Thanks. No, I wouldn't reuse the clamps, in fact I twisted off the threaded portion on each of them getting them off.

The muffler pipe fits over the tail-end of the cat converter; I assume by "BFH" you mean hammer--I have avoided beating on the pipe to avoid damaging the converter. I believe that the muffler pipe, long clamped tight to the converter tailpipe, has simply rusted in place. I am thinking maybe just painstakingly splitting the old muffler pipe with a cold chisel, but am worried that I could still not get it off the converter. TIme will tell. It is bathed in PB Blaster tonight.

I can't but I could split the old muffler pipe with a cold chisel, if necessary--probably a time-consuming job, but it would probably work.

Thanks again!

Yep. BFH == Big "Fine" Hammer ;)

Sometimes the clamps will crush one pipe onto the other. A sign of someone using the gorilla theory of mechanics.

An angle grinder, or if you have a circular saw, an abrasive blade will make short work of that pipe.

If you can get a long cut in it then just carefully notch it. Once you are through most of the way a cold chisel will go through easily. Heck, sometimes all you need at that point is a steel drift and a hammer. Watching the depth is the only tricky part. With an angle grinder it's a bit easier as you can see the outer metal peel as you get through it.

Part of the solution is what tools do you have or how much you want to spend on some new tools such as: MAPP gas torch should work Dremel Tool will work, I have cut some radiator heating pipe connections with a tiny Dremel tool with a metal blade. Mentally it seemed like I was taking the piping apart with a finger nail file but it worked surprising fast with great precision. I liked it! Pneumatic Muffler Cut-off tool will usually work A drill with a rotary attachment should work. Cold chisel and hammer will work but you have to be careful about not indenting the Cat. Conv outlet Plasma cutting torch........................yeah right like anyone has one of these to use parttime. lol

I wonder if Vinegar or Soda, like Coke/Root Beer, would work like Rust Penetrants?

I vote Dremel in your case! Maybe that Harbor Freight clone will work for you and please get A/C powered one! ;-)

This is a good list of tools, a few of which would be useful for other things. I don't mind buying new ones (who does?) particularly if there is the possibility of some other use for them down the road...

Thanks!

What's that Lassie? You say that DougW fell down the old rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Sun, 24 Jan 2010 20:57:36 -0600:

A diamond wheel won't work on steel. The dimond(carbon) is absorbed into the iron at red hot temps.

Some jerk at work killed my diamond wheel by grinding some HSS tools.