In the online directions on replacing ujoints
It's an external 12 point torx. A 12 point open end or socket that is close can be tapped on. Go to the stealership and buy one spare bolt because you will use one with a BFH to separate the hub.
You can make a 12 point, 13mm I believe it is fit on.
I highly recommend you start soaking the hub flange joint and the bolt ends with a good penetrating oil.
The hubs do 'not' usually want to come off the first time. A good application of antiseize on the mating flange does them wonders for next time.
I use a spare bolt to replace each one, one at a time for beating on. I cut the steering to the side so I have room to swing the BFH or Newfie Framing hammer or 5 lb sledge to hit that sacrificial bolt. I then cut the wheel to the other side after I move the bolt back there to beat on it again.
A puller will not work, the hub will blow apart.
There is 'no' need to remove the 36mm axle nut unless you are changing the hub. To do so can allow the hub to separate which means you have to buy a new one, they do not go back together without special presses.
The hub and axle all pull out as one piece, you then replace the u-joint and slide it all back in.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:Hi Mike:
Thanks for your note (an everyone else who replied)
To remove the hub, have you ever tried the trick mentioned in the linked article of wedging in a socket extension and turning the wheel? Seems to me that that approach could jam the hub a bit sideways making it a bit more difficult to remove.
I tried it once and it did not work, didn't even come close to moving the hub. Mike's technique is the best and worked for me. It took a lot of hammering! You don't need to get an extra bolt at a dealership, any bolt that fits the threads perfectly and is long enough will work fine.
No, I wouldn't use that for fear of damaging the ear on the axle stub. I have seen shops use that and a hammer and have seen more than one come to me broken/cracked there already from 'something'...
Even the hammer way jams a bit, so you need to go front, back, then bottom (from the front) usually. Maybe twice around even.
Mike
Blabber wrote:
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