Jeep Engine Stalls Just After Startup

But doesn't' the fact that I'm having no cranking problem steer the possible cause away from the battery?

Well, that being the case, I guess I'm stumped. I cleaned the TBA, including IAP less than 2500 miles ago. I want to say that cleaning helped for a little while, but things are deteriorating again.

Aside from the simple spraying of the TBA and maybe a little toothbrush assist, is there anything else I might try.

Thanks in advance for all of your responses!!

doo-dad #2 is the Idle Air Motor (53007562)

Is that what you're referring to? Do I just clean the electrical contacts or is it necessary to remove the whole unit? If so, how dangerous is this for a relative amatuer mechanic?

That is only for the very first generation ones that went dark Bill.

Once they started turning colors, usually green, they actually have a little ball in there that floats when the specific gravity is right for charged.

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Follow the link Bill:

are diagrams of how it works. There is more to it than just the pointyplastic rod.

Chuck: Have you checked the pressure on the fuel rail? You may be running high which would cause you to run over rich until you warmed up. The Regulator is vacuum operated and may be leaking.

Yes.

If you have cranking issues or starting while cranking issues, then the battery or main ground cable are suspect.

Mike

Chuck Rowe wrote:

You can take a multimeter and check the TPS out for electrical dead spots. Put the meter on it set to ohms and with the TPS unplugged and engine off run it to full throttle by hand watching the resistance on the meter. If it gets jumpy or drops to 0, you have internal contact issues. Could be dirt or rust.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

If one cleaning seemed to work but the problem returned fairly quickly you might want to have a looked at the crankcase ventilation system. See if you are getting a significant amount of oil blown into the air filter - if so, then the fumes from that will re-coat the throttle body pretty quickly.

You asked later about pulling the IAC - unplug the connector, two screws, and slide it out. DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION ON WHILE IT'S OUT

- it will spray parts across the garage (I know, and it a b!@#$ to get back together!). Then clean the shaft and the pintle (the end of the thing) with cleaner. Before you put it back, clean the port it sits in from the outside as well as from the top of the throttle body. That hole doesn't seem to clean very well with everything in place. You should need no adjustment - just put it back. I usually use a very thin coating of (sensor safe) RTV on the gasket to prevent leaks.

You may not be noticing a cranking problem, but there still could be one. Have the battery/charging system tested & do voltage drop test on all cables.

But that's just it, I'm *NOT* having any cranking issues whatsoever.

I think I'm getting out of my league here. I am probably going to take it to th dealer. I have a third party warranty which I hope the dealership will honor. A loaner would be nice if it's going to be more than a one day repair job.

It's late, so I left the dealer a message. Hopefully they'll call back tomorrow and I can get this taken care of.

I've also considered washing my Jeep. I hear washing a car improves engine performance.

It may improve the aerodynamics, but the weight of mud on a Jeep improves traction. Your choice. ;-)

-- Jeff

If you have the security key, your jeep will start and shut off immediately if the chip in the key has gone bad. Mine key chip failed and stranded me. I now always carry two keys. Try your second key to see if that solves the problem.