need help about throttle body install.

in the direction of the nearest bin. Seriously, you have wasted your money, and you might as well rip it out and put it back the way it was before. I know you aren't going to thank me for this, but hey.

Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

Dave Milne did pass the time by typing:

Ditto.

All you did was change the geometry in your TB linkage. The same "power" you feel can be had by gluing a 1/4" block to the gas pedal.

You have to adjust the kick-down cable. There should be a button or plunger looking doo-dad on the kick-down cable. basically, you push the button down and push any slack back into the adjuster then release the button. Next, rotate the TB to wide open and the cable will ratchet into position.

note: some don't work that easily, so just make sure there isn't tension on the kick-down cable when the throttle is closed. You can adjust this to change your shift response. I suggest making some changes to get an idea of what it does.

What about this???

that's a bored out body, not a spacer as he has. I have no idea if the bored out body works (but I'm sceptical as if used with the stock air box as there is a restriction that is narrower than the normal body)

Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

Dave Milne did pass the time by typing:

They do, with limitations. Anything that helps the engine breath easier aids in power but what goes in must go out and the injectors have to be able to keep up.

I wouldn't use anything larger than a 4.0 TB on the 4banger or your going to get one massive deadspot at the top. Stock fuel injectors can't keep up and it leans out.

The one on my 6 is bored over, but then again it's pulling a lot of air though. :)

Better to give it a try with a junkyard TB just in case something goes wrong. And you can go back to stock if it causes problems with emissions tests.

I can attest to that. I bought a bored out 4.0 TB and put it on my 2.5L. Left it there for less than a day. WAY too many dead spots. Didn't want to kill my engine. Traded it with a buddy who had a 4.0, took his stock TB and some $$ and we were both happy.

A waste of time, not to mention a real hack job.

There are a few of those that keep trading hands over on alt.jeep-l. Either that or it's just one person that got suckered for one and still can't unload it.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

bllsht wrote:

Thanks for all the replies.

One other thing I didn't do, was re-set the computer. But now that I did do it, it remains the same. I migh as well just put everything back.

I had also removed the stock intake and air cleaner, and put on a "dragon intake" . I guess I will learn some things for myself.

What do you guys think about Jacobs electronic ignition modules?

thanks.

A TB spacer used to be used on some carbs on V8's to keep them a bit cooler.

You 'could' just adjust your tranny kick down and see how it does. Be warned that in a hundred or so miles you should torque the bolts down again, it will usually come loose from the hot cold expansion. Same for the original TB if you take the spacer out.

Same for the intake, you have it, try it.

So did you do a detailed gas mileage, power on a certain big hill, etc., check before the mods? If so check them after just for the heck of it, you might have hit on a winner combo, who knows?

I did when I modded my 86 258 and I got a sweet 25% boost in power and gas mileage and got a lower emissions reading by killing the emissions computer, adding a hot coil and timing curve and manually tuning it up.

The Jeep FI engine is already tweaked up pretty much the best it can be.

It has all been tried by somebody here and nothing has any real effect.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

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