Hi Gary
I couldn't find a floppy wrench similar to mine but you can find something similar with this link:
Hi Gary
I couldn't find a floppy wrench similar to mine but you can find something similar with this link:
For the "10784 Draper", see:
Gary
Can you maybe get a long sharp screwdriver or chisel onto the rim and hit it with a hammer there on an angle towards off? I have managed to get one off something that way a while back. The impact can get it started... or really screw it up by starting a leak, so be warned....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >Gary
Ask them what type/model tool they use to remove it at quickie lube and then go buy one yourself..
The other option is you can buy/install a remote filter adapter and locate it to an more accessible place
Another option for right now might be to fill the 'cap wrench' with 5 minute epoxy and glue it to the filter. After it sets up you can apply your socket wrench and twist it off. Or wrap the cap flutes with duct tape
or
wrap a couple turns of duct take around a ratchet extension and then a couple more around the filter body
Ya know..... I probably have at least one of all these tools. Some work great, some are specialized to specific vehicles, and some are just cr^p.
The ones I use most often are the ones below.
I use a 2 arm/cam operated wrench that goes on the end of a 3/8" square drive socket set. MUCH better than the end cap drives, the harder you twist the tighter it grips. Similar to this:
Right! A properly installed spin-on oil filter can usually be removed with your bare hands when the next oil change comes around (assuming you can get your hands on it, of course).
Dan
Hi Billy Ray,
Because both tools you refer to grab the oil filter around its middle, their "handles" are to the SIDE of the filter. But, in a Liberty, there's no room at the SIDE of the filter to swing the "handles". So the tool almost needs to work from the END of the filter.
Gary
Gary,
The tool shown in my other post will get the filter at the end.
Carl
Take a sharp screwdriver, hammer it through the filter, puncturing it and then torque it off with the screwdriver. Yes, it's that easy. Nick
Carl wrote:
Hi Gary
I forgot to check on that wrench of mine last night, tonight for sure.
But if there is no room to work from the side, the end is your only option.
If this was my problem, I suspect I would sand the end of the filter and attach an old 1/2 inch drive socket with J-B weld then twist it off using my 1/2 inch drive breaker bar/ 6 foot pipe combo.
Merrill
That's a good looking wrench, it might just work too if he can get in to it.
I use an end-cap wrench I found at Napa. Here's a picture:
Bruce
(I'm amazed that there were 56 responses to my original posting!)
I ended up taking my Liberty to EZ-Lube to do the oil change.
Normally, they'd charge my $32 for the oil change and 14-point check-up.
But, since I had already bought the 6 quarts of oil and the oil filter and had a coupon, it cost me only $15.00!
They even returned the 1/2 quart of extra oil they couldn't use.
(Hopefully they didn't over-tighten the oil filter so, next time, I can do the work myself -- which I prefer to do).
I use a socket extender on the end of the wrench. My hands aren't particulary small, and it's a real hassel getting up in there to tighten the new filter. As far as removing the old gasketing, I've been pretty lucky in that normally nothing is left in there. I took a short piece of 1/4 inch wooden dowel and cut the end into a scraper. It gives me just enough reach to clean the face of the seat.
I think it should be mandatory for all automotive design engineers to spend at least 6 months in the shops serviceing and working on what they design. I bet things would be better (grin)!
-Bruce
How did they get it off?
First you start with the marketing folks. After that, you might not need to blame the engineers any more.
Will Honea proclaimed:
And when was the last time they made a 1955 Ford V8?
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