Oil Pressure Hits Zero And Stays There- JGC '96

Sounds like he got it worked out.

Had a nice weekend. Windy as crap getting there and got my face frost bitten a bit in a high wind slush storm Friday night, It was all white and blotchy for a couple days, but the rest of the time was fun.

Mike

billy ray wrote:

Oil Pressure: 40 PSI (idle) 60-70 PSI (pull)

Mechanic was right, engine would've been f-ed if there was no or low pressure.

We changed out the pressure sensor again, changed from Fram to PureOne, and put in a quart of Lucas. He also cleaned dome of the connections.

Everything seems fine. Engine was hot and the dash gauge read a consistent 40, goes up to 45 when accelerating.

I appreciate all the help and hope that those trying to flame me would cool off. I saved myself at least $100 dollars, and ultimately, my mechanic didn't charge me to do the mechanical gauge, filter change et al.

Those doggone idiot lights drove me crazy, as I'm sure I've done the same to some of you guys trying to help.

THX!!!

Oh, going to flush the antifreeze, any recommendations?

... this is getting to be a pretty complicated intersection....

That last line is pretty funny.

It would be, but it's true. I live in a town like that.

Earle

Change the hoses, take the old stuff to a recycler, use an ethylene glycol based formulation like Prestone Heavy Duty in the black container, blow all the flushing water out of the heater core with an air hose, but don't get the pressure too high.

Earle

Im sure dozen people here told you the same thing last week..

Someone else suggested doing this last week too.

Next time you ask a collective group for help and are told a dozen times to do something (like connect a mechanical guage) do it, or have your mechanic (I use that term loosely, since a real mechanic would have done it first) do it. If your mechanic had done the mechanical guage thing first you would have saved even more money, you wouldn't have paid to have ports cleaned, you wouldn't have had to drive to the stealership to ask them to flash the pcm. I'm glad he didn't charge you for the guage hook up and the filter change, if he had I would say run away and never ever go back, infact since he preformed a bunch of work that wasn't required he should have offered you a refund on the initial work preformed.

Your welcome, glad it all worked out.

Before you do this or have your mechanic do this, find a NEW mechanic....

Snow....

Did he claim that cleaning the ports would solve your problem? Does he know how to clear the error codes? the guy is a PUTZ he's a tool the only difference between him and his torque wrench is the torque wrench is useful.

I cant blame you for wanting to save a couple of bucks, but lots here had mentioned to first install a mechanical guage, which you nor your idiot mechanic did. If your mechanic has acess to TSB's then he should also have acess to service manuals, which would tell him to connect a mechanical guage before flashing anything.

What did the stealership say when you told them that a mechanical guage was never installed for trouble shooting??

This is why you need to find a mechanic that will eat the cost of missed diagnosed fixes. If they are good, if they have acess to TSB's, service manuals then they wont mind standing behind their word, if they are wrong then they won't mind eating the cost to correct things.

$50 to change a oil sensor????? not a bad price considering its a 4 minute job and 1/2 that is spent washing up afterwards. when he had the sensor off he should have installed the mech. guage.

Since you want to stick with the inept ripoff artist, please let us know what happens once he finally installs the guage ( bet it shows normal pressure) , if he f#ck$ things up again, demand a refund for all work he preformed and then go find someone else.

Snow...

25 Minutes???? How about 5, including 2 minutes finding the right wrench!!!

Imagine that. A faulty $20 sending unit. And someone behind a desk is sobbing right about now, thinking about that $6k engine he won't be able to sell you. Isn't funny how anti-climatic the truth can be?

The PureOne is a very good choice. I use it myself. Very good product.

No flames, so no cooling off is requred. I spoke the truth about a known junk product. I like talking about the pink elephant in the room. And I enjoy the terse reaction I get when facts are presented to an audience that would then try to convince me that the Earth is flat.

Good point! Limit the regulator to 15 psi if possible. I've had very nasty things happen when I forgot this little detail.

Glad your problem was solved so cheaply. Just one thing-some people think the PureOne's tightly fluted filter element might actually impede oil flow. Any way, just to be safe, I use the Premium+. My next choice would be Wix. If I knew for sure it doesn't, I'd use the PureOne also.

Dan

DC says you can continue to use the 'Amerian Green" coolant your Jeep came with .... they recommend you upgrade to the new G-05 spec coolant.

Valvoline's Zerex brand makes both the original green and G-05 spec coolants. They are available at PepBoys and NAPA.

Be sure to use Distilled water, minerals in tap water promote corrosion

A flush-n-fill kits makes the procedure simple and thorough and costs less than $5.

Interesting about the fram oil filter.....

I put one in last oil change and had a lifter noise happen on start up. I was just thinking the engine was showing it's age until I read earlier this summer about the fram filters and start up noise issue.

So I changed the oil and filter last week and put a different brand of filter in and wow! The first start had the valve train rattle like 'normal', but that was the only one. It now starts up quiet.

That is the last Fram filter for me thanks!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Just curious, would a flush & fill kit be OK to use as long as you get all the flush water out? I have well water with all kinds of minerals in it. Or should I rig up a way to flush with distilled water?

If you open all the drains, you only have the heater core left with water in it. Maybe a little in the block, but not much. If you don't open the block drain, you will have about 30% of the total system volume of water in there.

I guess you could flush it with your tap water and then use low pressure air to blow the water out of the heater core or take the heater hoses off the engine and hold one up while you fill that with distilled to flush the last out of there.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

So I can do the flush myself? Mechanic said he can do it for 40$.

That is 'so' hard to give a straight faced answer to, knowing your 'mechanic' and your mechanical ability....

It is messy. You will have to collect the poison liquid that comes out and recycle it. You will have to unhook hoses and crawl under to get the engine block drain to do it properly and you will have to get it all back together right.

To refill it you need to add half the system's volume in pure antifreeze, then top the rest up with distilled water to get a 50/50 mix. If you want colder weather protection, then add 60% or at the max

70% pure first. You have to add pure coolant first because a lot of water will be trapped in the cooling system and engine block so if you ad a premix it won't be good enough.

'Normally' I would say go with the $40.00, but not in this circumstance....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

You also have to figure in the cost of disposal. Some localities charge for this. Some apparently don't have any (legal) way to get rid of it.

Earle

What happens if you just pour the stuff in a hole in the ground? Is ethylene glycol some kind of super stable substance that lasts forever or does it break down?

Jeff DeWitt

Earle Hort> You also have to figure in the cost of disposal. Some localities charge for