POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR is a hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that Rattle can pain scratches and peals to easily.
So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
83 CJ 8, a work in progress
The POR 15 that I have used had a gloss finish, but I believe it is available in flat and semi-gloss versions as well. Be advised that UV light will cause POR to deteriorate, so it has to be topcoated with a regular paint in any event if it is to be exposed to sunlight.
---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
yes the primer will lose it's solid color but not it's protection. The color will lighten and may show signs of blemishing. It is a little hard to rub off but will scratch. It has some bite to it and sticks to a good surface! The POR-15 topcoat that I applied to my trailer seems to either rub off or erode away leaving the primer exposed.
You might do better with an epoxy type paint, but POR-15 might be easier to apply. I would use POR-15, but that is me! lol
good luck! later, dave AKA vwdoc1
I have failed to topcoat in the past and the POR itself eventually deteriorates to the point where it goes away entirely.
---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
well it is kinda tough stuff. I once wire brushed it, with an airtool that had a wirebrush attached to it, and it didn't come off. According to "them" it bonds with metal.
There are different finishes I believe. I went with the "regular" finish (painting the fram etc, that's under the Jeep, almost no one will see it).
Oh and I painted the skidplate with it too, it doesn't scratch off or anything.
Only thing they mention is that UV light will have an effect on it. (but as I said, what I painted is underneath the Jeep)
Ron
Evan wrote:
Others have commented here on the disappointment of powdercoat finishes before. The usual lament is "I've never had a powdercoated part that didn't rust."
POR-15 sets (it is catalyzed by moisture, it doesn't really dry) to a fairly hard, glassy-smooth finish that can be scratched. It runs and sags easily when brushed on, especially if you've followed the instructions and have kept opened cans in the fridge.
POR-15 doesn't adhere readily to clean metal, it sticks best to surfaces with a good "tooth" like a nice rusty surface. If you are painting over clean or aged painted metal you should use their prep kit first, otherwise you are putting down a very expensive coating of something that won't do what you want it to do -- you might as well be using Rustoleum.
POR-15 must be top-coated if it will be exposed to sunlight as UV light will degrade it. Since it is so smooth and it might present adhesion problems for what ever you paint over it, you might consider using their tie-coat. Now you're up to 3 POR products. Or, skip the POR and just go straight to Rustoleum.
By the way, the instruction sheet that comes with POR-15 isn't joking. The stuff starts to set as soon as you open the can. Don't paint straight from the can unless you expect to use the entire can and can paint fast, ladle (don't pour) it out and use a paint cup. It _will_ glue the lid down, do use a double layer of plastic food wrap between the can and the lid. Buy a fist full of displosable plastic bristle brushes, you'll get about an hour or two of life out of each one, depending on the local humidity. Wear old clothes and nitryl gloves -- POR cannot be removed from clothing (it makes a good binder for fiberglas cloth repairs) and it takes a week or so for it to wear off of your skin. If you dribble a puddle of it on your concrete shop floor, leave it alone until it sets. If you try to wipe it up you'll just make a permanent stain on the floor, but the puddle can be scraped off with a putty knife after it sets.
Buy less than you think you need, then reorder a small can to finish the job. POR-15 does not have a long shelf life once opened, even if kept under refrigeration. It will turn to a solid block of plastic resin in the can.
Having said all that, POR-15 is excellent for what it is designed for, if you use the way the manufacturer intended: Painting over rust and sealing the surface against further moisture damage. I love it. But if you don't use it the way they designed it, you are just wasting money.
Thanks to all, Just saved me money. . .
But I'll get to the frame this spring,
83 CJ 8, a work in progress
Where is this stuff available? I'm getting a lot of noise on Google.
Ah found it:
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