Pulling axles from a Dana 44

Jan 31, 2004 19 Replies
S

Hi,



I'm trying to tear down a rusty Dana 44 rear end from an 80-something Cherokee. I manged to get the bolts off the retaining plates that hold the axles in, but the axles won't come out. Looks like the outer seals are rusted to the housing.



Are these seals all that are holding the axles in place? I've not yet removed the carrier gears. There's nothing in there on the inside axle ends like C-clip or something?



Any suggestions for freeing the outer seals? I've used some torch and hammer. Just wondering if there's a trick to this before I really start beating on it.



Also, there is a single round hole between two of the bolts on each wheel mount surface. Any idea why it's there?



Thanks,



Steve


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P

Put a wheel on with loose nuts and use it as a slide hammer. The bearing race is retaining it, not the seal. No clips I would avoid heat, and not hammer directly on the axle flange, if it's that stuck, get a big slide hammer with the frog that bolts on.

To use a socket to remove the bolts holdiing the axle plate in.

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M

The hole is there to allow the socket wrench to fit easy on the backing plate bolts.

Maybe you just need an axle puller or slide/slap hammer to yank the axle out.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve wrote:

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P

Nope. They even did it on Monster Garage when they did the 2nd hearse show.

Paul

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P

I chain it to one of my friends, and tell him that there's a beer for you, over thataway.

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C

my method: i lay a prybar against the backside of the axle flange (between the axle flange and the the drum brake backing plate) and give the prybar a good, firm outward tap (or two or three) with a BFH, resulting in the shaft popping free but not flying across the garage ;)

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S

Thanks to all for the advice. I fastened the ends of a chain to the flange and yanked real hard with a bar. Saved the beer for myself.

Any tips on non-destructively removing the bearings from the axles?

Steve

Paul Calman wrote:

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J

Steve, don't even bother trying to get them off in one piece. Buy new Timken bearings and have them pressed on, they're not that expensive that you should try to save the old bearings... which is pretty much impossible anyway.

Jerry

-- Jerry Bransford To email, remove 'me' from my email address N6TAY, PP-ASEL See the Geezer Jeep at

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K

I actually got bearings for mine that are one peice. They have the seal and bearings all together. The retaining collar ring thing is seperate KH

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S

Hey Bill,

Thanks for the manual excerpt.

Interesting warning against reusing the retaining plate nuts. I had no idea. Would my XJ D44 have the same 'prevailing torque' nuts as the TJ? Is replacing the nuts enough, or should the bolts come off too?

Steve

L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote:

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P

I've never seen them back out.

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W

After seeing that one demo, I can see why. This guy would set up the jigs, heat the bearing good and hot, then slap it in and pop it off - no big deal. I would probably do the same - less chance of scoring the axle taper that way.

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