1. Home
  2. Jeep and Willys (new and old)
  3. Question about rear upper shock mount stud for 1989 Grand Wagoneer

Question about rear upper shock mount stud for 1989 Grand Wagoneer

Having terrible trouble!

After removing the old shock (Monroe Gas Magnum), it looks like the bushing sleeve is frozen on the threaded stud.

However, after great effort and inability to remove what I think is the sleeve, I am starting to doubt whether or not there actually is a separate sleeve at all.

The new sleeve that came with the new Monroes tests fits nicely over the threaded part of the stud visible, and slides up to and matches up with what I think is the old sleeve.

Can someone verify for me that the stud should have threads all the way up to the base that mounts to the frame and that what I am trying to remove is actually a sleeve and not an integral part of the stud?

If so, is there any other way to remove this sleeve? I have tried twisting with vice grips, a torch, etc. all to no avail.

Thanks,

Frank

Reply to
Frank
Loading thread data ...

It is a sleeve. Have you tried splitting it?

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

No, didn't try that- I couldn't think of an appropriate tool. I didn't think a nut splitter would cut into enough of the length to work, and was afraid to use a Dremel for fear I would cut too deep and into the stud.

What could I use?

Reply to
Frank

You do not need to cut it very deep because it is only about .030 to .040 thick. When you get it off, grease the stud before you install a new shock on it.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

I would first hit it good with PB Blaster or other good penetrating oil and soak it for a couple days. I would then maybe hit it with heat or tap it with a hammer to crack the rust, then use vise grips on it to see if I could twist it off.

If not, I then would use the dremil tool to score a cut in it. I think I would be worried about the nut splitter damaging the bolt because the sleeve is so thin.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
formatting link
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Reply to
Mike Romain

Likely a wast of time. Split it and be done with it. One more thin if you want to try to twist it loss use a small pipe wrench not vise grips. The teeth in a pipe wrech bite iton surface in one directio and to not depend on a brute force crush to gripe like vise grip which grip sleeve to stud even more.

I would not be at all. Sleeve would split of it easily.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

SnoMan wrote: One more thin if

Well..... I really think that can work two ways.... The pipe wrench will keep grabbing tighter as you pull which can hold the parts together harder to the point of warping or crushing them...

You have to be careful with either tool.

Pipe wrenches are great for things like tie rods and drag links though.

You haven't had the rust experience some of us have that live up here in the rust belt. The part is too long to crack lengthwise when fused to the shaft. I have seen it tried. The crushed end did allow penetrating oil to go in after though.

PB Blaster and time are the best from what I have seen.

Shocks are a pain!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
formatting link
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Reply to
Mike Romain

Thanks to Mike and SnoMan for the suggestions!!

I had already liberally dosed the area with PB Blaster over several days, but will try scoring it with a small Dremel wheel and perhaps it will peel off.

Frank

Reply to
Frank

You have a point but generally a pipe wrench will put less compression of surface because the teeth dig it with less pressure to get a got grip (and this depends on pulling force applied) where with vise gripe you ahve to smash the heck out of it before you even pull on wrench

I grew up in the rust belt and althoiugh I am not in it know my plow trucks live in it because they are out a lot in it when roads are first being salted and spreading salt too so it is a big battle at times. A trick i learn long ago is to use the old gear oil I save from changes to a old tractor (85w140 and it takes about 4 gallons at a time) and spray it on bottom of truck and frame wih a paint spray gun every fall and spring. Gear oil is tuff to wear off and it penetrates well into crack and seems with time. My old 79 Jeep 20 wihich plowed for many years still have about 98 perecent of frame and you can remove shocks or ubolts without having heart attack doing it even after all these years. Kinda sounds a bit corny but it really does work well and keep plow equipment looking get too. (I have a 12 year old plow that looks better than some 2 or 3 year old ones)

TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

You might try heating it up with a touch to several hundred degrees (hot enough the PB blaster smoxes when you spray it one) and then spray it down stead with PB Blaster untill in cool engone to stop smoking as the heat will expand it and as it cools it will suck some of the PB into joint.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.