Question on snow chains.....

Those are what i run on y front end when pushing through heavy snow. Not bad for slimy mud either.

Just to make sure you ran those on a WJ with 245/70's? With no scraping? Thanks again!

Approximately 11/1/03 14:04, Esty uttered for posterity:

Class S is the smallest class of gap between the tire and the hard parts that is available for fitting chains. With additional restrictions that some chains note as being suitable only for passenger cars and not for SUV's with class S clearance. There are a few traditional chain styles, including twist link and z-bar type links, but the cross links on those are by definition a bit on the wimpy side in order to be useable as Class S on the vehicles in their fitment guide. In class S, the good chains are the cable variety, where it is easier to maintain robustness and at the same time effectiveness.

The better cable chains also have better tighteners to keep the chain closer to the tire...which also helps with limited clearance but then the most effective way to do this is realize that the chain moves outward simply as a result of centrifugal force and if you ain't moving fast, it don't move outward as much. The worst is when the driver insists on trying to spin the tires with chains on.

If I were running chains of any type, it would be on a secondary set of cheap steel wheels with the smallest snow tire that fits.

With a WJ and a good set of *very* tightly fitted cable chains, if you can't make it thru, perhaps you may want to rethink your goals.

not quite, sorry. 35 inch MT on a Jeepster.

Lon Stowell did pass the time by typing:

Don't forget the clearances required to the springs and steering components. It's tight in there.

I'm planning on getting some Z style cable-chains. Just enough bite to help on packed snow without causing clearance problems.

Hey Lon, (or anyone for that matter) any experience with the strap type cleats?