Re: 80 CJ7 Spindle nut size?

The wearever number you list is the same on my box.......the 77 and 78 used thicker 1and 1/8 rotors and the later 78 on used the 7/8 thick.

Are you doing the wheel bearings at the same time?

I can't think of any other reason you would want to pull apart the hub and then for sure have to replace the seals and repack the bearings just to change a rotor.

But if they might need it, then buy the two inner seals first, the old ones will mess up when you pull the hub off.

The rotor is an overlay part and comes off by itself. Buy 'Lots' of good penetrating oil and plan on a 2 hour soaking. I have had to punch out the freaking lug nut studs on one before it would let go. Had to take that hub off....

Meanwhile the wheel lugs just slip fit through the rotor, but look pressed. The press fit is in the hub underneath.

I don't know the size of the nut, I have never needed a wrench on one because they are just on finger or a light tap with a screwdriver and hammer to move them tight with locking washers all over the place.

The hub bearings are a pain to set back up, but it is worth it if you open the front cap and see water or dry grease. If the grease looks good and the wheel has no wobble when jacked up, I would leave them alone unless you really know what you are doing. I do, and they are a pain with big tires...

Mike

Robert wrote:

The primary difference in the rotors is if they have 5 or 6 bolts to hold the hubs on. The 6 bolt variety is preferred, and there can be strong arguments that say if you have the 5 bolt variety, then it is worth the extra money to get the 6 bolt style now. The money difference is for the cost of the 6 bolt locking hubs, the rotor assemblies should be nearly the same cost.