Don't let him put it on too thick. Nearly every Rhino-ed Jeep I've seen has too much of the stuff.
I like Line-X much better.
Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA
You might be able to work something out where if you do some of the prep he will knock a little off the price. You could prep sand the paint mabye. Are you removing the rollbar before it gets sprayed?
Brand Howard
When I had mine done (product is called "Reflex") I removed everything but the drivers seat, they took that out. Seat belts, rear seat brackets, rubber plugs, everything. But...I threaded the fasteners back into their holes and masked the heads, so I wouldn't have to cut out the liner material when it came time to replace everything.
I didn't remove the roll bar but I did remove the padding, he sprayed about halfway up the bar so the padding covered the transition.
One thing I wish they had done was mask the tranny cover...under the console, the removable sheetmetal portion, where the lower shift boot is located. Would be easier to install a vent tube to the NVG3550, whose vent is located up near the bellhousing. Oh well, I'll just have to cut it loose when I get around to installing that thing.
Good luck.
Rhino liner or LineX is permanent. Get the best product and best job you can, even if inconvenient. It would be worth it to me to take it to the LineX guy. You can always rent a car for a day or two if you can't get rides from friends or family members.
Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA
Looks can be deceiving. Different coatings are applied in different thickness'.
I wouldn't say a thing to the dude spraying it, it's him that has to fix it if it fails....
Doing your own prep is a good idea. You will spend way more time to get it good than a shop will usually...
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sIchabod Shagnasti wrote:
Ive never thought abt doing this to a Jeep.....
Is its really a good idea??
Weight. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com
Only if you have some major corrosion or bad repair to cover up. Then only to sell it. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com
I have Line X in my Superduty pickup bed. It is less "rubbery" and more of a rough surface, which is fine for a pickup bed...if it gets wet you still get good traction. The Reflex material in my TJ is more rubbery, would not put that in a truck bed..it gets wet, you slip. Conversely, I wouldn't put the Line X in the TJ tub, it's too rough IMHO for a passenger compartment. IIRC, the Rhino is more rubber-textured than Line X.
I'm going to Line-X the underside of my Willys Wagon, as well as the engine compartment & wheel wells. A buddy of mine did that to his 56 Ford Panel Truck hotrod and he only has to hose off the underside of the vehicle after driving it and it looks like brand new. It's nearly indestructable and lasts forever. He showed me how tough the Line-X is by attacking the inner fender well with a Phillips screwdriver - didn't leave a single mark. Very tough stuff indeed.
I'm not doing it as a 'prettier than bondo - hack repair/hideup' at all. My wagon is in great shape and I want to keep it that way, as well as show it for a time, and Line-X looks great.
Cheers, - Jeff G
67 Kaiser Jeepster Commando 50 Willys 4x4 Station Wagon"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:
Hey, I said it first! 8^P
Definitely have to be careful of that!
I would like to have my CJ LineX'd. How much should I expect to pay?
Thanks, Jim
I was quoted $500 for my TJ. They do all the prep work (you just drop it off). However, the roll bars were extra...
I was told $400 if i did all the work,
so I bought a can of herculiner $90.
You can see a bit of it on my web sight,
83 CJ 8, a work in progressMine it running $400 if I take everything but the driver's seat & belt out. I have that done, put all the bolts back in and masked them so I can get them back out. Also masked around the shifter, etc.
In Omaha, Nebraska. I have the guy's card if anyone's interested, just email me. ("gymrat"@"cox.net").
Any bolt hole that had a bolt in it to hold the seats down would be good to avoid.
Be sure to remove the drain plugs, or you will never see them again.
PS A drain plug is a matter of perspective, they could be fill holes ...
I need to refinish the bumper on my XJ... I have the one from Custom 4x4 Fabrication and the powder finish on it is crap... In some cases it might have been rock chips that caused it to allow moisture under the powercoat and a rust bubble to develop... In other cases, there is no break in the powercoating, but there is still a growing rust bubble... I've been thinking about removing it and refinishing it in something else... I had thought about having the local Rhino guy do it, but figured that if it was as much as they charge on a truck bed, it wasn't worth it... I would have also preferred something that I could do myself... Come to think of it, redoing the paint on my roof rack might also be an option... Is the herculiner stuff any good? Will it resist rock chips on the road?
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