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stainless steel nuts on graded bolts

I am rebuilding a Willys overland pick up. There are many places where I could put stainless steel nuts on regular grade bolts. I would think this would make removel or adjustment easer in the future. An example right now would be the nuts that go on the manifold studs and tighten up the little donuts. There are several places where I could do this. I also have access to stainless steel nuts at a relitively low cost. The same cannot be said for the bolts. What do you think of this?

Reply to
Alan Haley
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'Stainless' steel is just what it says, stain less, not rust proof.

On a manifold, the temper will fast come out of them and they will weld themselves to the bolt just like any steel nut would. For that application, I always use proper brass manifold nuts. These tend to last a long time.

When I went with a 'glass body on my CJ7, I went all stainless. Expensive for the high grade ones too.

I also used anti seize and/or 'loctite' compound on them and others that were still steel. The anti seize compound is worth it's weight in gold on older vehicles. It stops rust and makes later removal a breeze. The same rust stopping action happens with 'loctite' compound. It holds things on tight, but still protects the threads.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Alan Haley wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Well, do not use SST on any part of the exhaust system or the engine itself. They will be worse to get off than a regular bolt or nut. If you want something shinny buy grade 8 chrome bolts, it is because you anal about rust paint them with high temp paint. If you use SST bolts for trim, body fasteners or grab bars make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize so you won't gnarl the threads up, SST has a nasty habit of doing that. But what do I know?

Reply to
HarryS

Read this:

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John Davies Spokane WA USA

Reply to
John Davies

And, SS hardware comes in different grades. Replacing a grade 5 with a grade

2 would be silly, and with a grade 8 might be equally wrong.
Reply to
Paul Calman

Reply to
Drink

I believe that is more of an issue when machines put them together. If they go too fast, the threads can gall and weld the nut to the bolt.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dr>

Reply to
Mike Romain

I've seen plenty that were put on by hand and aged, and the heads just twist off when I try to break them loose.

Reply to
Paul Calman

When I used them, they either got a slap of antiseize compound or loctite. That should keep my threads clear.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Paul Calman wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

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