I've never used stainless steel studs myself. But I do know that
whatever you use in terms of threaded fasteners, you need to apply a
generous amount of anti-seize compound to the threads before you
assemble anything. It will make your life much easier in the future.
Chris,s suggestion that anti-seize should be used is one of those
fundamental truths that should be etched in stone and hung on the garage
wall. Innumerable barked knuckles and obscenities bear testament.!
I would pass on the stainless studs because they can gall and freeze and
also not reach the recommended torque specifications. You would have to
use anti-seize on them just as you should with high-carbon steel, and
you are still left with a questionable installation with stainless.
I agree with John, and the new Street Rodder Magazine has an article
with Doc Hammett, owner (along with the lovely Linda) of Totally
Stainless. Along with other pearls of wisdom (such as you CAN re-use
Nylock nuts, up to a point) he says the same thing as John about not
reaching proper torque specs, in some applications. I can also, from
first hand experience ($$$$) what happens when you have polished
stainless spring perches, for an early Ford front end, and even in
mock-up stage, with the nuts just on snug,what will happen if you
don't use anti-sieze... you end up taking them off with a torch. Ouch,
And that works...provided you have the hardware.
For everyone else, a generous swab of anti-seize(and don't be shy
about it...) on the exhaust parts will ensure you can take it apart
down the road without breaking the studs off and then pitching a fit
when you have to buy a heli-coil kit to fix the mess.....
Good luck with it.
it's all in what works for folks and what their preference is..... Years
ago I bought some copper exhaust nuts at the same time I bought copper
exhaust gaskets... since then I went to brass nuts that are a smaller size
than the stock nuts... you can buy them at most vw retailers, or do as I
did, I spent the five bucks the anti-seize would have cost me on 100 brass
nuts (11mm wrench size and taller than the steel stockers).....
Or these? Bag of 100 for $5.30, zinc plated, 8mm,
Also, self-locking, w/ built-in washer, $0.55/ea.
If I could find stainless studs for my entire exhaust system with
brass nuts I would use them.
Back in my "youth" I would snap header collector bolts trying to
remove rusted nuts. The temp variations and exposure under the car
caused steel nuts to rust.
One day and old-time racer suggested fine-threaded stainless bolts
with brass nuts along with lock washers.
The stainless would not rust and the brass nuts would expand at a
different rate than the stainless preventing them from bonding
together. Warm up the motor just a little and the brass nuts would
expand faster than the stainless bolts they held onto making removals
easy. The split lock washers and fine thread prevented them from
vibrating loose. And I didn't even need to use anti-sieze!
Not practical for all applications, but great when you "uncapped" your
headers every weekend !
Thanks for all the advice. I think Ill experiment by replacing the 2
most corroded of my studs will S/S ones but use anti-seize and brass
nuts on all the exhaust studs.
Can I just clarify that by anti-seize we are talking about copper
grease (Copaslip) or is there something better?
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