I finally got around to installing the Weber, but I don't have any paperwork on it - the original setup (Carter) has a fuel supply line coming from the fuel pump to a filter. The filter has two lines coming out of it, I assume one is a return to the gas tank. The fuel line that came on the Weber is just a single line from the fuel pump, what should I do with the return line? Reuse the 2-outlet filter?
Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights PosiLock, 4.10sThe return line is needed to prevent vapor lock on hot days. It also gives the fuel pump a bit of relief.
Just remember to use the center outlet for the carb and have the return line at the top so gas doesn't syphon back to the tank when the engine is off.
You now need to put the computer to sleep or it will just stay in limp home mode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sTookie wrote:
Thanks Mike, I already did the Nutter, Just had too many lines for this new carb. I've got plenty of vac lines to pull/plug now! Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights PosiLock, 4.10s
Hey, one more question - The Weber came with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, should I use it or just let the return line handle the pressure? I'm thinking I should still use it, I hear the Weber doesn't like higher pressure (although a stock pump is probably not very high) Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights PosiLock, 4.10sSomeone posted a good link the other day on how to set up the Weber. I saved it, if you would like I can post it again.
Mike
Tookie wrote:
I was told the stock fuel filter regulates the pressure to around 5 psi. This is a bit high for the Weber for some folks.
The pressure is controlled by the size of the hole in the filter's return line nipple. It is a metered hole that could be drilled out to lower the pressure.
But if you have the regulator, then I would put it in.
Mike
Tookie wrote:
I have a Weber on my 258 and love it, although it was a bear to set up but once done it runs great. I have headers and had to go with a .80 idle jet. Now it will idle at aprox 750-800 Rpm when warm. My throttle plate is not opened at all and the idle screw is not in contact with the throttle lever. I had constant vacuum on the advance port causing me not to have any advance, the jet change and timing adjustment fixed that. My timing is now set to 9-10deg at 1600 rpm, the advance works great. I also have removed most of the vacuum lines under the hood, all that is left is the front axle, advance, pvc, master cylinder for the brakes. I had to put a fuel pressure regulator on and adjust to 3.5 psi because it would run real rich with the stock fuel pressure. I am using the stock filter center going to the carb top going to the tank. The big float bowl vent is going to the canister, with no purge line hooked up. I also did the HEI upgrade which helps with the idle and adds some power off the line.
Scott
90 YJ
Heh, I think you are the second person to mention they have the timing set at 1600 rpm for the computer controls with the computer in limp home mode or not existing.
Do you still have your computer in the loop?
My 86 sets up with the timing at 9 deg at idle with the ported vacuum line off the distributor and no computer. I have set several others up like mine as well.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sFoot Loose wrote:
No Mike computer and all associated wiring is in the trash. I set the timing with the advance off, I did it by ear got the best idle, took it for a ride to see if it pinged, then I put the light on it and if I remember right it is about 9 deg at 1600 been awhile since I did it though.
Scott
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