What are my likely sources of error?

LOL, just realized what I wrote in the subject. I've been studying for my

4th Year Research Stats course all day about error control and my brain is still engaged in that. Ahhhh

I will second that.

Condensation is an issue when the hot cap hits cold water. My CJ7 will die like that. All it takes is a shot of WD40 under the cap to 'dry' it out.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Ahh, that actually makes sense now. One of the guys along the trail asked if I had any WD40 so he could try something. Unfortunately I never thought to bring any. Lesson learned. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again guys.

The distributor is wet. Spray the inside with WD40, then wipe it with a paper towel.

OK, now I'm getting worried. I cleaned the dist cap/rotor ...nuttin. So today I replaced the cap & rotor, the plug wires, and the plugs (NGK's). Same thing. The orientation and firing order is correct. It's getting fuel ...well ...I can sure as hell smell the fuel, so I assume it is. It will sorta start and then sputter a bit and either backfire or die. The ONLY thing that I have left to try is this: I took the intake cover off to check it again and the big black wire that goes into the top of the engine was out (I'm guessing air intake to engine?) ...now it was either out the whole time ...or I pulled it out (which is likely, because it doesn't sit in there

*too* well. However, my shitty battery is toast again so it's on the charger tonite and I can't test it again until tomorrow. But ...I'm getting a little worried now. I'm kinda outta ideas as to what could be wrong. Also, the plug on cylinder #2 was wet (the threads). Am I looking at an engine job here? Anything else I can test/eliminate/replace?

Please save me! Thanks!

griffin '85 CJ-7 ...RIP.

check the ignition module...

I would next change the gas filter.

If the plugs are/were dry when you pulled them it is getting no fuel for sure by now.

Those engines will flood soak the plugs bad enough that they must be pulled and dried before it will start after a spark failure.

Smelling some gas implies some is getting through, but not enough to reach the plugs where it is needed.

Gas pumps up and quit too, but 'normally' you would smell/see a pile of gas in the engine oil. Have you smelled your dipstick?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griff>

Not sure about 4 cyl's but each time my '83 258 shows those symptoms, it is the ignition module or the connectors to the ignition module.

Ya, I'm down to either the igmod or the timing chain. When I slightly rotated the distributor, it seemed to run better at first, but now it doesn't run at all (just sputters and dies). I've replaced the dist cap/rotor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and next I'm probably going to check the timing chain. I'm think what happened at the trail was probably like you guys suggested: the dist cap got wet. Then when I was getting towed and tried to jump start it, I probably slipped a tooth on the chain from the huge force. In essence ...two separate and unrelated problems. Altho, this is just speculation. I priced out an ignition module today at $275 CDN ...ouch. I'm really hoping that isn't the problem cuz I wasn't lookin to spend that much ;p Is there any way to fix them? My dad's buddy said his on his Ford truck always dies when it gets wet and he had to wrap it in a waterproof material. The one on my CJ is right down by the driver's side wheel well ...which is the side I went into the puddle with just before it died. It would make no sense to me, tho, why they'd put it there if it's that sensitive to water. I've never had that problem before, either.

Any thoughts on all this?

griffin '85 CJ7

That is a basic Ford ignition module. Fifty bucks or so at Canadian Tire. Stay away from the Wells ones.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griff>

You could try the scrap yard....might have issues finding one quickly enough...but remember too that the electronics in the scrap yard module will be as old as the junker sittin there....20+years old?!

Some modules can be fixed, I'm sure (I'm an electronics guy...but haven't pealed one of these open)....probably just a FET that fires the spark or something.....

Anyhow, the module in my old car (oldsmobile..nothing special) cost me $1000+....I choked!

Wow !! 275 CDN for an ignition module ???? They go for about $30 US at the 'Zone in the peoples republic of california. On a more constructive note, the IM can effect the timing. There is some amount of computer controlled ignition retard built into the module, that when it fails, looks just like erratic ignition timing.

Maybe the main computer might cost that much but Ford Motorcraft IM's are cheap and readily available.

OK, I got the IM tested and it works fine. So this rules out the plugs/plug wires/dist cap&rotor/ignition module/fuel filter. The only other thing I haven't fully checked that's been mentioned is the timing chain. Is there any way to check this without having to take the cover off (ie: looking at the top of the engine for when the valves open/close)?

Sort of....

You need to remove the distributor cap and rotate the crank until the timing mark comes up on 0. Then rotate backward and see how far the crank moves before the rotor starts moving backward. 15 to 17 degrees is normal to worn I believe, of you are up to or over 20, then maybe you might have burped it when you tried roll starting.

One other way also is to bring it up to the timing mark before removing the cap. Then mark where #1 wire is and remove the cap. The rotor should be just getting there.

Hey are the plugs still dry and if so go put some freaking gas in the tank eh! ;-)

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griff>