101s again..

Morph was sucking air in on two cylinders and also had a broken adjuster after my six frost bitten nights on the drive... try clamping off each hose to see where the fault lies... I.e. left front then right front then the rear to see if the pedal restores to normal on each attempt. The seals sucking air is a tricky one as they don't always leak fluid out.

Yeah I need to do this too...

If you have copies of six stud look it up... around £30 or so.... ring Darren and order it....yes it was a B**tard to fit on Morph as I had to remove pannels ... the GS should ion effect be a little simpler... :-)

MJ Lee specials.... by the time you get mog ones why do all that messing around! If I recall correctly they were about £ 100 - £125 a rim.

Failing that then get on the Yahoo group and I'm sure Rich Clafton will be able to point you in the right direction amoungst others.

Stick to standard for a while,,,that way when you can aford it you'll appreciate it more. Morphs non PAS at the present on standard rims and tyres... You kind of get used to it. and it makes you take your time on those carpark manouvers.

My standard system sounds good.... but when it does come to replacement time I think a Rimmer will be on the shopping list.

Lee D

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Just a little hobby site about Landies :-) ________________________________

Probably a silly question, but... is it possible to convert a GS to a Radio body?? The reason I ask is that I like te idea of a hard back that you could camp in, but don't like the size of an ambie. Have seen one hard top conversion, but it looks as though it might be mega noisy(??) Have seen a few radio bodies on martyns excellent website and they look the business. It was what I was after in the first place, but they seem to be as rare as chickens teath and twice as expensive. Should I just be saving up for what may inevitably be my second 101??

Graham

Rubbish. Bypass it and remove it from the chassis. It's usually the apportionating valve causing the trouble. The seals go, they get gummed up with crap. I spent ages and several different methods before I bypassed the valve, and bleeding was fine after that.

The apportionating valve doesn't leak, but it restricts flow to the rear cylinders, thus making them 10 times more difficult to bleed. A solution is to remove the linkage and ensure the valve is fully open, but they move so little, and so infrequently that they get bunged up anyway.

A usefull procedure I have found on LR dual circuits is to bleed the rear axle (L to R), then the front, (L to R) and then have two assistants crawl under front and rear, and bleed the LH nipple on both front and back simultaneously. It works as the master cylinder doesn't pump fluid fully if only one curcuit is being bled at a time.

Filter is, I believe a custom 101 part, I never actually managed to remove mine from it's housing, so I never got around to buying another one.

Gearbox oil is a long-running saga........ I use EP90, others will reccomend 20w50

Engine oil, cheap 20w50 or 14w40 Mineral. Don't bother with semi-synthetic unless you've completely rebuilt the engine and want to keep it clean. Fully synthetic is a complete waste of time

Plugs, standard v8 rover plugs, for low-compression engines.

Points, again standard items, unless you have a 24v dizzy.

Certainly my points and plugs and dizzy cap were sourced from Halfords, although It is perfectly possible to get them cheaper from other suppliers.

Alex

I know that exact feeling, it was sub zero when i was doing it. Back two cylinders are new so shouldn't be them, haven't touched front and they were fine pre-rear brake surgery, hence why I recon it could be that b****y apportionning valve. I had wondered whether seals did that.

...I'll keep trying him. Might enlist brother to help fit it, he is a trainee mechanic after all, I'm sure he must need the practice :o)

Thanks. No immediate plans for changing them but trying to get an idea of cost and hassle factor.

Have nothing against it at moment. Have spent a lot of time at the helm of vintage tractors so thats not too much of an issue, besides girlfriend tells me I need the exercise. It was again linked to bigger wheels, cos I bet they would make your arms ache.

7)Exhaust

Mine too, but i thought the offer might not last that long. She is becoming tired of it already as she has hardly seen me since I got it :o)

Cheers Lee

Graham

Whats the best way to bypass it then? A straight joiner?

The one on it is a FRAM cannister filter, but too old to get a number off it...

aah, hence the conflicting advice. I figures with the amount of leaks I've got, the thicker the oil the better :o)

That pretty much comfirms what I've been told before.

So there is a difference between low and high compression plugs?

no 12v so that should be ok.

Thats where I went today. They didn't have a clue, hence the RR questions...

Many thanks

Graham

Never underestimate the ability of new parts to be unserviceable. I put new OE brake cylinders on Percy and one of those leaked... Now that took a bit of finding... I actually clamped up the pistons on the opposite end of the cylinder and then manually operated the other piston (mole grips) and could see the fluid blowing bubbles and also hear the air splish sploshing in the pipe.

I've got a Fergi TEF 20 up at my Dads :-) must do something with it when I get this lot under control.

This was one of the very reasons I threw in the towel and sent Morph to the local Non-franchised dealer for repair, only the second time in my landrover ownership that one of the fleet has been tinkered by persons other than me. It cost me just over £300 , I forget exactly but the costs are listed on the site on the Project Morph Diary. Whilst the cost took some stomaching it did mean a day later I had a safe 101 and had I paid myself a reasonable hourly rate I dare say I was breaking into the £1000 bracket.... not to mention the other tensions you have highlighted.

I've just asked Mrs D if she can offer words of support given we've been there and done that.... however I think "torching it" may be a bit OTT. HOWEVER I remain optimistic as when I pulled up on the drive with Percy after similar work I got a similar to above response..... now she's on about going to work in him once he's painted........ must be a Landrover female hormone thing!

Lee D

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Just a little hobby site about Landies :-) ________________________________

alt.fan.landrover hall of fame -

I've seen one fitted with those, looked very smart! Don't think girlfriend will stretch to that though ;o) I'm getting quite a list of lottery win accessories now, better buy a ticket :o)

Graham

Oh great, didn't want to hear that. Right, another thing on the list to check then :o(

Yeah, I've got an International Super BMD in the shed that I really should be working on :o)

It really is beginning to get to that point with these blasted brakes. Still I will have another go today and see if I can sort out the problem.

After the other night I'd have agreed with her. Would have warmed me up too ;o) Think I'll persevere a bit longer though.

I'd go along with that :o)

Cheers

Graham

In message , Graham G writes

20/50 is specified due the oil being pumped around the gearbox as opposed to relying on conventional splash lubrication. As long as the pump can cope you shouldn't have a problem, if it can't you'll be changing a gearbox soon ...

If there is no sponginess and you need to pump them they are out of adjustment.

What bleeding system are you using?

AJH

Hi

Might be excessive travel on the shoes due to drum wear??? This is a common one on old landies.

Not up on 101's I assume they got drum brakes!

apportioning

Don't wish that upon me. The oil in it when I got it is definitely EP90, but if its meant to have 20/50, then thats what I'll put in.

G

Brake problem is sorted. Would appear that it was a combination of things. Borrowed a friends pressurised bleeding device (bloody brilliant idea, I'm def getting one), some more air came through then it was clear. One of the brake shoes had managed to jump the adjuster, so re-assembled it all and it has gone back together fine now. The other rear brake had obviously seated its self it further and so more adjustment was needed. The front brakes which I had left alone (working on principal that they were fine when I drove it in and I hadn't touched them) needed a fair amount of adjustment too. That done, they all work fine much to my relief. I am a bit red faced though for not picking it up sooner.

Thanks to all suggestions, they have been duely noted for future reference. One thing I will say is that if you haven't got a pressurised bleeding kit you ought get one. They are about £15 and worth every penny. Don't know how I did without one.

Many thanks

Graham

Spot on. It wasn't drum wear, just that they needed to seat themselves properly after being in bits.

They do indeed.

Many thanks

Graham

I don't very often get involved with this discussion as I often feel mi head will explode...

However... EP90 should NOT be used in a 101 gearbox.

Martyn

Thanks Martyn. I didn't think it ought to be as I've never used it in a box before, but because it was already in there I assumed it was right. Will change it for 20/50. Does that apply to the overdrive too?

Graham

In message , Graham G writes

yes

Cheers Andy

Graham

Good stuff!!! Now go take the Mrs out for a slap up meal..... Chips 'n mushy peas ;-)

Lee D