1. Home
  2. Land Rover 4WD vehicles
  3. 3.5 V8 Head Gaskets (with photos)

3.5 V8 Head Gaskets (with photos)

I've started stripping the top end of my 1991 V8 3.5 Disco. It had been starting and running fine (albeit a tad rich) but losing coolant and overheating. I reckon I've got a head gasket (or two) failure and to be honest, I'd been looking for an excuse to take it to bits anyway. I've not worked on a v8 before. Always 4 cylinder stuff. I've put some photos at...

formatting link
It took me a while to realise that the fuel rail and injectors just pull out fairly easily, although the o-rings are pretty solid. I was initially trying to get the inlet manifold bolts out with the rail and injectors still in place. Ok for most bolts but not the back left 2.

I notice the left side rocker breather is quite gummed up and also that the plenum chamber and air ram housing are pretty filthy. Is this normal or is it an indication of a problem? Crank case pressure perhaps?

I realise I should have done this much earlier but would a compression test be valid with the inlet manifold off? Kind of academic now I'm this far in but would be useful to gauge improvement.

As I say, this is my first work on a v8 so any tips or observations of where I might be falling on my ar5e gratefully received.

Cheers Peter

Will post more photos as the strip-down continues.

Reply to
Peter Meed
Loading thread data ...

Slower progress tonight. Alternator bracket off, Steering pump loosened and swung out the way (pipes still attached).Valley gasket out, Left side manifold off. Right side rocker cover off. Right side Manifold detached from head but still attached to exhaust by one ba5tard bolt. Also one ba5tard manifold bolt has sheared in the left side head. Should be fairly easy to remove once the head is off and on the bench. Apart from the one that sheared, most of the exhaust manifold bolts were remarkably loose.

Tonights pics at:-

formatting link
P

Reply to
Peter Meed

You can still check the compressions so long as the heads and pushrods are still fitted. Might be a good idea as you will at least know which cylinder if there is something wrong. Better than finding you have missed something when you've put it all back together, and you will know where to look. Also just check behind the water pump that the casing hasn't corroded through.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

Water pump is still in place at the moment and I was hoping to leave it there. Does the check you suggest require the pump to be removed?

P
Reply to
Peter Meed

compression

formatting link
>>

I've seen quite a few older ones which look to have just eroded or corroded away on the inside casing behind the pump impeller which even though you can't see anything externally may be just on the point of becoming porous, easy to see when it starts near the heater hose outlets. It's not a big job to remove the pump to have a look and it may save you some heartache at a time when you don't need it.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

re-assembling now....

formatting link
P

Reply to
Peter Meed

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.