300tdi cutting out

When you say the ignition lights come on, does the battery light come on (and no others) after the engine has cut out, but while it is still being turned by the movement of the vehicle? If so, this indicates that there is a fault on the ignition circuit.

If the ignition lights (battery, oil) come on after the engine has stopped turning, that is normal.

When it cuts out, does it cut dead, or does it lose power first?

There is a fuel cut off solenoid on the back of the fuel pump, just above the injector pipes. Check the wire to this, make sure there are no breaks in it etc.

In article , larry90 writes

I had this problem (89 110 TD CSW), finally traced to a dodgy ignition switch. Given the difference in age & design this may be irrelevant, but have a look anyway. On mine, the original ignition/glow-plug circuits are not a nice piece of design :( YMMV, but have a careful check anyway.

Getting the switch off is a real pain (awkward/no access & tiny screws, easily lost - we're down to just one holding the switch on now :( ), but once it's separated from the lock you can turn it with a carefully-chosen flat bladed screwdriver If there's any slop, or signs of heating around the connectors, I suggest you replace it.

Regards,

Simonm.

My 300Tdi Discovery used to do exactly this ... finally traced the problem to a dirty electrical connection to the fuel cut-off solenoid. Removed the spade connector, cleaned up the terminal and replaced the connector - no more problem. Gotta be worth a try ;-)

The cut-off solenoid is mounted on the injection pump block and has a single wire going to it.

Regards

Steve G

larry90 wrote:

Hi Simon,

The engine doesn't appear to lose power first, it just dies and both ignition and oil lights come on.

Thanks for your help,

I'd remove the plunger from the cut-off valve on the fuel pump (this is what normally stops your engine) and see if it still cuts-out, if it does then there is a problem with the feed to this valve, 'stop solanoid' I think it's called. by the way, the only way to stop your engine with this removed is to stall it. another option is to remove the spade connector and run a wire directly from the main feed to the starter to the stop solenoid, this will remove the normal feed from so if the syumptom stops you know where the fault is, and you can remove the temporary wire to stop the engine rather than having to stall it.

Regards. Mark.

In message , larry90 writes

As others have said check the wire to the fuel cut off solenoid.

If that is OK..

Is it fitted with an alarm ?

Certainly sounds like the injector pump solenoid, it gets 12volts when the ignition is on which pulls the solenoid plunger out of the fuel supply and allows the fuel to flow. Turning off the ignition drops the plunger causing the engine to stop through fuel starvation.

The wiring conection is prone to rust so could fail, replacement costs around £15 and is a simple screwout/screwin job - you may get away without bleeding the system. I have seen several solenoids fail - one even melted, so its worth carrying a spare in the car.

If it only happens in the rain change the windscreen vent seals..suspect water behing the dashboard.

ChrisG

300tdi def 110 53 80"

weren't in the

lights etc

I had this on my diso 300tdi and it was the fuel cut off solenoid pigtail. Either remove the spade connector and replace it, or just try to squash the connector a bit so it makes better contact.

At least that would be the cheap fix.

Regards Stephen

Hi Mark, yes it has the LR immobiliser fitted - I was wondering whether that could be in the loop. I've followed the majority vote and cleaned/replaced the connector to the solenoid but the engine cut out again last night.

I noticed that when the ignition is on and I remove the spade I get a spark as I re-attach the spade if the engine is working ok. Last night, because I didn't have a multimeter with me, I pulled the spade off but couldn't coax any spark so I assume no juice to the connector.

Again the engine started after approx 5 mins in spite of rather than because of anything I did.

I'll look at the ignition switch next but does anybody know if the immobiliser can be removed/bypassed - I'd rather have an electronic free system and take other measures for security.

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions

Dave

Isn't this the sort of thing you get when the alarm spider starts playing up?

The one on my 110 is in the seatbox under the passenger seat. Apparently they suffer from dry joints and can cause problems.

Not sure if the spider thing only affects Disco's though.

Just an idea.

In message , larry90 writes

If that is the case then my money is on the alarm spider. LR do a kit to replace it.

I thought it was possible to open it up and resolder the iffy joints. Damm sight cheaper than replacing it I should think.

In message , Simon Barr writes

Yes I agree. But only if you know what you are doing.

Hi You Can Get A Link Lead From Landrover Sorry Dont Know Part No But Does Not Cost That Much,you Just Disconect The Connector To The Spyder And Plug In A Link Lead To Bypass The Spyder,then You Can Remove Spyder And Drill Out About 6 Rivets And Resolder The Joints That Have Gone Dry,and Replace It If You Want To,i Would Check Out The Spyder As From My Experiance It Sounds Like It,you Dont Always Loose Cranking Its Normally Just One Side Of The Immobilisation Which Happens To Be The Fuel Side,you Cant Just Run A Wire To The Fuel Cut Off Solenoid From Say A 12v Feed As The Spyder Works In A Funny Way And Needs Certain Inputs And Outputs To Let Vechile Run Otherwise Any Thief Could Easily Hot Wire Your Car Hope This Helps,tiga.

Thankyou everyone for your helpful inputs, I'll let you know what the fix was when I achieve that glorious moment !!

"larry90" Said

Hi Dave, I had the same problem with my 300tdi Disco, I traced the fault to the "immobiliser ecu" located underneath the radio. Apparently it is a common fault see -

I found a website that described in great detail the procedure to repair the ecu but i have since upgraded my pc and the link is nowhere to be found, suggest you google for "300tdi immobiliser"

In brief it involves removal of the centre piece of the dashboard to access the unit, once you have the unit out and opened you need to resolder the relays to the pcb and the unit should then work as lucas intended.

A temporary fix is to run a single core cable from an ignition switched fuse directly to the stop solenoid on the injector pump. If you dont fancy dismantling the dashboard i'm sure most good alarm fitters would be able to fit an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser and totally bypass the LandRover system.

hth __ Andy

96 300tdi 78 101 ambi