As well as bending the trackrod, the rear wheels will now not rotate, i assume that the liquid mud has got into the transmission brake and seized it up (only a guess). i can't back the 90 out to work on it unless i use low box and then the rear wheels just slide, something is seized solid.
what makes all this worse is that my brothers frontera survived the offroading intact!
any ideas what might cause the symptoms?
cheers
If the back wheels are skidding, id not move it at all..
With the handbrake off, there should be a little play in the transmission brake, which i could get at on my old 90 by removing the middle seat and cover. If its solid then it needs investigating!
If it is, 1st thing i'd prolly do is get the back up on axle stands and remove the rear prop from the transmission end and see if i could rotate the prop and make the wheels turn. If this does, then it leads to something the otherside of this, ie transmission / gearbox(s).
I would have thought that as the transmission brake is on the output of the box, it would lock all 4 wheels, and not allow the front to work either..
Sommat aint right!
Doesn't it only lock the rear wheels?
I suppose thinking about it, it depends on the center diff being locked
On or around Sat, 07 Apr 2007 13:16:42 +0100, Mark Solesbury enlightened us thusly:
correct. Hence the advice to lock the diff before jacking the vehicle.
OK, I have removed the rear propshaft and the two retaining screws in the transmission brake cover, but cant get the cover off. if i drive it (on the driveway) , now in front wheel drive only, the transmission brake housing doesnt rotate as the vehicle moves , i am puzzled, is it safe to drive like this i.e. no rear propshaft?
colin
Thats the Center diff doing its job. At least its not the rear axle thats c*ck'd!
I had a similar issue when the handbrake got stuck on. I was amazed at the pressure they can hold. It took a lot of swearing and Coffee to get the drum off, but be careful not to damage the drum or the shoes while getting it off. I did it by carefully prizing it off. on the back of the drum back plate, on the Offside there is a plunger like bit with an actuator in it. If you can get this appart, it should relieve the pressure on the drum. Get it all off including the backplate, which is 4 bolts i think, 2 at the top and 2 that hold the oil catcher bit on, clean the whole thing up, I used WD40 as its all i had, but i took a hell of a lot! Grease it, re-assemble.
Jobs a gooden.
Once its off, its a piece of wee.
No it's not safe to drive like that, what you are doing in that situation is to force the diff to put up with a very large difference between the speeds of the two outputs, the rear being stationary and the front moving at twice the speed it normally would. You'll toast the diff really quickly as it's only designed to put up with small speed differences and for short periods of time.
Remember the towing instructions for towing the vehicle with the front wheels raised and stationary and the rears on the ground? This is the same, but the other way around.
If the rear prop and wheels are moving when the vehicle is pushed then it does sound like you've got a jammed handbrake.
Ahh, taking te whole drum off including backplate sounds like a winner, can i do that with the drum still bound by the brakes? is it just four bolts through the backplate?
cheers
The bolts are the wrong side of the backplate, and the drum has to be removed to get at them, and the shoes for that matter!
Its gotta come off!
I seem to remember an ad. in LRO many years ago offering a means of disconnecting the drive to the front wheels of an RR. I think the idea was that, by engaging the diff lock you were able to use rear wheel drive only, but why???
I think it was French!
Richard
No idea, but the poster's situation was very different.
I've driven my landy in 2wd using the diff lock before when I removed the rear prop shaft and had to make a mad dash to Hellfrauds for some bolts ("what car's it for sir") to put the damn prop shaft back on again. It drove OK but there was a bit more play in the transmission or so it felt, didn't quite feel right!
In case a U/J knackers up on the front prop and you have to remove it temporarily to get home, or the same with a front differential problem where you can remove the front prop *and* hub driveplates to get home.
Martin
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