My 101 front axle project is nearing its end, with the diff case rotated so the drive pinion points straight at the transfer box. The job has been done and jigged so that the castor/camber have not been affected.
Now to rebuild the prop, shortened, and with a double Cardan joint on the diff.
It was suggested to me yesterday that I'd be better with a CV joint than a UJ. Any comments from the team ?
I'd be putting the double cardan at the transfer case end as that is where the biggest angular difference will be (and it is less inclined to end up chewing stones apart).
On or around Sat, 07 Apr 2007 12:08:09 +0100, Steve Taylor enlightened us thusly:
CVs do what it says on the tin: constant velocity. This is good in a method of driving a shaft.
The classic propshaft with the diff and 'box horizontal but out of line has
2 UJs set at opposite angles, the theory being that the non-constant angular velocity imparted to the shaft by the first one at the 'box end is cancelled out by the one the other end working in the opposite manner. However, the shaft itself is left with the varying angular velocity.
These problems are magnified the greater the angle involved, which is where double-joints come in - each joint is only working at half the angle, and you set them 90 degrees out of phase so in theory the variation introduced by the first one is removed by the second one. Of course, you then have one at the other end of the shaft as well, which rather spoils it.
There's a reason why modern FWD cars use CV joints rather than UJs.
in the case of the propshaft, I'd be looking at either double joint both ends or 2 CV joints. CVs would be superior if you don't mind having a custom shaft, and suitable joints are available for more or less any power output, thanks to their widespread use in cars.
As fixing the UJ is cheaper? Probably cheaper to get a new shorter prop with UJ's too. My mate had a couple made for his sprung 88" and i dont recall it costing him that much at all.
I can see your case for CV's though :) new toys ;)
Will the old prop not still fit? I thought that there was a fair bit of length adjustment in the central slider bit (though ive only looked at series ones)
Can you shorten the existing prop yourself? or does it need to be remade to the new shorter length?
Sort of .... ground the old weld out very carefully until a hair line is visible between the tube and the UJ doofer. Whack withanammer until UJ thing slides out of end of tube. Shorten tube to desired length or add centre bearing as in my case..
take to a real welder to reapply same :-)
Shortedned the rear prop and added centre bearing to front to get around elephants ear sump on the Jag lump
front prop with a bend visible in this series of snaps
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The rear prop was so short that balancing wasn't an issue. The front prop was used so rarely that that wasn't an issue either.
On or around Sun, 8 Apr 2007 17:31:28 +0100, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:
I lengthened the rear prop on the 110 when I fitted the auto box by cutting it in half, fitting a large bit of heavy tube over it and welding it up. It's off-balance, mind - vibrates at speeds over 60. Once I've stripped the body off it I'll take the shaft and get it balanced.
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