Bodywork removal Guidance.

I am wanting to remove/replace the wings from my 110CSW and wonder if anyone could point me in the right direction for info on removging and refitting? Thanks.

Reply to
landy
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landy tried to scribble ...

Buy a decent grinder and plenty of grinding wheels .. though I find the cheapie £9.99 ones from Aldi or Netto or similar to be most excellent as general 'rusty bolt removers' .. and absolutely essential on any Landrover that's ever even thought about venturing forth off-road. Or on-road for that matter ... ;)

Reply to
Paul - xxx

1) Take wheel spat off - you can use a small punch to punch the pin out of the middle of these or drill them out 2) Line of bolts down the front of the bulkhead (4?) - use 3/8" drive ratchet + extensions where necessary (also another smaller bolt at the top inside of the wing attaching to the bulkhead 3) 4 big philips pan head screws inside the wing, coated in underseal! Might need to drill their heads depending on how rotten they are. Two on each bracket, fore and aft of the wheel (oh yes, take the front wheels off as well for better access) 4) Radiator surround/front panel to wing - numerous smaller nuts and bolts. Unbolt as necessary - have a hacksaw blade ready if any look like they'll give you problems....

At some stage you should really disconnect wiring at appropriate points, take out air boxes/power steering reservoir/header tank/washer tank and anything else like that.

This is not a comprehensive list by any means, but you shouldn't have any difficulties replacing your wings.

Regards

William MacLeod

Reply to
William MacLeod

Thats the problem with me at the moment, I have exposed all the rot but don't really fancy getting down to removing anything in this weather out in the open. I live too far from the main road for power tools and I need to be a contortionist to reach both sides of some of those stubborn bolts.

As for the floor panels, that will probably need a bit more than an impact driver by the looks of it so eventually I shall have to resort to brute force.

It will have to wait till the spring though, in the mean time I am just going to patch. In fact since I am not aiming for a concourse job, I might be happy with patching for a long time yet as long as there is at least some part of the panel properly attached to somepart of the chassis it does not really matter.

The worst is the bulkhead as I am currently just letting the rain trickle down inside the front door pillar and out the bottom because I don't want her off the road to get the welding done until I have a bit more spare time after Christmas.

A few holes out of sight don't really bother me, the wings would have to be collapsing in a heap of powder before I seriosly considered replacing them.

Reply to
Larry

On or around Tue, 11 Nov 2003 12:27:29 -0000, "Paul - xxx" enlightened us thusly:

mind, nearly all the bolts came undone on mine.

There're funny giant screws into the door pillar, which go into some kind of spring clip things; there are row of nuts and bolts which are a sod to get to along the top of the inner/outer wing joint; a couple of big screws into the panel behind the headlamp; loads of Funny Fasteners (TM) all around the wheel arch eyebrow (which you'll want to get off first - I made a special tool by taking a suitable nail (about 3"), grinding the end down to the same diameter as the pin in the FF, and with a flat end. This can then be used with a small tapping hammer to tap the plastic pin through the fastener. If you're lucky, you can recover the pin and re-use the whole thing), erm, where was I, oh yeah, couple of bolts through the chassis in the bottom front corner of the inner wing, half the radiator mountings on the inner wing, and more bolts in the joint down the side of the headlamp panel. Oh, and a sneaky one onto the bulkhead just under the back edge of the bonnet.

The good news is that you can get away with not replacing all of the ones holding the outer wing, which are a git to get at.

On mine, the bolts holding the inner wing to the outer wing were 5/16" UNF, for which a half-inch AF spanner is handy.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

These are my favourite Land Rover component - they are called ACME screws!! Somehow seems an approprite name for a Land Rover Part!!

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

On or around Tue, 11 Nov 2003 23:45:48 +0000, richard.watson enlightened us thusly:

'ere, yer right, now I think about it, they're an ACME thread form. Most common application for this is in vices.

similar ones hold the floor down, too.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Mole grips!!!

Floor panels should come out simple enough there was onlt 1 bolt on each oin percy, the rest were those wonderful big screws that come out a doddle.

Macro are doing a 900 watt 2 stroke genny for £90.... which will drive alot of power tools and won't be an issue if it's in the wilds.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Inc or exc VAT? 'Cos they're £100 delivered on eBay.

Reply to
QrizB

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