Clutch change day tomorrow ?

Possibly a daft question to ask & all that.... There is fluid in the reservoir & the clutch hasn't got air in the fluid, has it? Check that the slave cylinder's moving when the pedal's pressed. They've got me once or twice that way:-/

Tciao for Now!

John.

I'd be almost certain that your problem lies in the hydraulics side of the clutch which will make it a lot easier for you to repair.

Even thou there was a certain amount of juddering previoulsy on take up, particulaly in reverse?

I really hope your right, started to take out the floor panels this evening only to find what seems to be 6 different sisrs of nuts/bolts all of which are rusty as a very rusty thing.

Angle grinding in shorts is fun.

The juddering could well be broken engine or gearbox mounts - check them carefully.

Ahhh the joys of a Series vehicle.

If you're enjoying that try MIG welding in sandals ;-)

I went one better, hot sunny day, T-shirt off , this just needs a quick weld.... Never had a sunburnt chest before......

-- To reply direct rot13 me

bURRt the 101 Camper

200TDi Disco with rotten floor 200 TDi DIsco, "the offroader" 1976 S3 Lightweight

On or around Fri, 08 Jun 2007 08:45:08 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:

the trick is to adopt a wide stance, so that your feet are further from the hot spitty bits of metal...

On or around Thu, 07 Jun 2007 22:16:39 +0100, Simon Isaacs enlightened us thusly:

BTDT, only in my case it was an arm.

Managed to get the rear prop off last night and the transmission brake is saturated in oil - so at least i know why it wasnt working very well.

The castlated nut holding the prop flange was only finger tight but still had it's split pin in place - is this loose nut likely to be the cause of the leak or should i now (in addition to changing the clutch) be looking at the oil seal on the output shaft just up from the brake assembly?

It'll no doubt be the seal behind - it's fitted as standard as leaky though you can reduce the leak with a new seal.

Be warned though once you've decontaminated the shoes and refitted it you'll be able to launch items in the car if applied too early. Sneaky little feckers they are. :-)

Lee D

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

With toes a quarter to three.... but then which way is North ? ;-)

... and once the nut is retightened properly your speedo needle should stop waving in the wind. Bonus!

Ohhhhhh that'll make a change fixing something (the speedo needle waving) whilst fixing something else - i usually manage to either break or find something else to fix.

I started removing the floor today with a view of attacking the clutch but after having to get the angle grinder out on the floor plate bolts i thought i'd approach from a different agnle.

So using a process of elimination I have changed the slave and master cylinder and can get in and out of gear (couldnt before) - but - with the clutch released the gearbox output shaft (i've taken off the prop and handbrake assembly) rotates, i'm hoping this is because the prop isnt attached. As expected the shaft stops rotating when the pedal is depressed.

All i need to figure out now is where i get a new set of transmission pads from on a Sat in Staffordshire.

Beamends or Craddocks come to mind - Craddocks may be closer for you I guess.

Lee

Yep - it's just drag in the gearbox - you'll easily stop the output flange turning by grabbing hold of it with your hand.

Clean the old ones up (brake cleaner, hot soapy water), roughen the surface of the friction material slightly, and refit them. They should be fine.

Oh bum Craddocks closed at 1 and I've not managed to get in touch with beamends who are probably sensible enough to close on Saturdays - i managed to find a new set of pads but have now lost one of the little pistons from the transmission brake adjuster - something is telling me to leave this job untill next week.

On or around Sat, 09 Jun 2007 09:05:52 -0700, Sean enlightened us thusly:

IME it works best phoning Beamends' mobile number.