101 Manifolds

My guess is they are going to foul the chassis. I have a pair on Percy and they are very much pointed downwards where the 101 Manifold goes almost verticle to the exhaust.

Wasn't there mention from Steve of some stainless manifolds being knocked up?

Lee D

yes, seems to have gone quiet since then, will chase him though

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bURRt the 101 Camper

We are still looking. The RHS manifold is an evil little re-entrant bugger. The options are not cheap for the volumes involved unfortunately.

Steve

I'd venture to suggest that brazing it up is a fairly pointless exercise

- there will be enough carbon from exhaust gases impregnated into the manifold that the braze will completely fail to adhere.

Clean it up, pre-heat with a gas torch, stitch it together using short tacks from a MIG with mild steel wire and Argon/CO2 mix (or buy cast iron welding wire for said MIG if you're feeling *very* affluent).

Preheat, TIG and nickel, then cool in hot sand ?

Steve

Or even MMA using nickel rods (as you point out the secret is in the slow cooling for which vermiculite is a better option than sand).

Great tip. Thanks for that.

Steve

used this method when I managed to knock a chunk out of the cast iron fireplace I had removed from the lounge, spent 4 weeks nitromorsing and cleaning, and was about to put back into the longe. Annoyed didn't even come close, chuffed when not even Dawn could see the chunk as I had welded it back in from the back. I still have to look for the damage now!

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bURRt the 101 Camper

if you could machine up a nice flange(or multiple ones) to bolt to the head and work to. then welding a manifold up using ready made bent pipe sections shouldnt be too bad a job if we could make a jig to work to. i've seen walkthroughs of people doing it on forums. Fancy buying a pipe bender and some tube and sticking it in your workshop and i'll give it a go? (will go halves on a pipe bender if you like as i want to make a car exhaust!)

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Have you REALLY looked at the thing ? Its evil even for a casting.

Steve

spoilsport!

I suppose it could be kind of tricky. If you didnt make it so that it joined to the downpipe where it does now and instead cut the downpipes slightly shorter and joined them furhter down it would give you enough space to run more pipes. Might be able to liberate a few more donkeys from the engine that way too.

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That's the way to do it - patience and good welding skills are all that are required.

My exhaust tube bender cost me about £1500 as a second-hand item. I'm not sure you'll find anything significantly cheaper than that.

On or around Fri, 08 Jun 2007 07:57:16 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:

I ran out of wire in the mig the other day while welding up a long drop plate for Edward II. Had to crank up the MMA welder, which has not been used for about 3 years - normally use mig or gas on everything now.

I'm a bit out of practice, as is the machine - something's corroded in the rod-holding bit and it's getting a bit hot[1], also not letting the full current through to the work. Still, it's wedlded. I'll have see if it can be cleaned, might not come apart, the screws look a bit rusty.

You can get em on ebay for £150ish. I doubt they are as good as yours though! I gather you can realistically do up to about 45 degrees with them without deforming it.

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I sincerely doubt it in 1 - 1.2mm tube in that kind of diameters !

Steve

I could do with some odd bits for the project RR ( mmm sounds good) I bet you are a bit far away tho' Derek

On or around Fri, 08 Jun 2007 19:43:29 +0100, Steve Taylor enlightened us thusly:

works a lot better if you heat it.

peterborough

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bURRt the 101 Camper