D1 headlamp problem

Put my headlights on tonight, dipped beam & they were very dim, like half brightness at most, put on main beam for a few seconds & when i went back to dipped they where OK?

Any ideas?

Reply to
Nige
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Don't do it again.

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

Is this the wretched dim-dip device? Either working as intended or perhaps not depending on how complete and accurate your description was.

When working correctly - with side lights selected and engine running, dip beams also operated at reduced intensity.

Is it possible that, in the first few words of your description, only the side lights were selected? If yes, it sounds normal.

Reply to
Dougal

On or around Wed, 3 Oct 2007 20:08:56 +0100, "Nige" enlightened us thusly:

dim dip relay system arsing about? I'd have to do more research to guess how/where, there are different systems on different motors.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Yeah, I'll have a gander about.

Seems OK now, might have got damp at the weekend.

Reply to
Nige

In message , Nige writes

Check the connections at the bulb, they have a habit of melting.

Reply to
Marc Draper

Cheers Marc, will do.

Reply to
Nige

How could it possibly have got damp?

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You're a feckin' animal.

;)

Reply to
Paul - xxx

Aye!

Had to get the mud off somehow!

Reply to
Nige

On the early D1 (not sure which version you have), headlamp switching is throught the stalk which wears and eventually gives up the ghost. The common mod is to wire the switched headlamp wire to a relay and connect the relay to the battery, you will then find you have much brighter lights. The stalk switches are really not up to transfering headlamp current. You could, as a quick test, run a jump wire to the battery and see what happens. Hope this helps.

martin

Reply to
MudMuppet

Used to get this on my Classic Rangies, and assume the D1 is similar.

The connector block behind the headlamps melts, and when switching the lights on, if the connectors for the main and dip filaments happen to be together, they fuse, and you get both filaments on, but at only half brightness.

Sometimes the momentary break in current when switching from dipped to main or vice versa, especially on a slightly bumpy surface seems to be enough to let them part, and the lights work properly again.

Eventually they will fail for good, normally when least convenient.

Problems in the stalk are also possible.

MW

Reply to
mike whiskey

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