Disco one key fob problem?

Remote fob battery low? Some systems cut the indicators when fob battery is low: the words for this system suggest that this only happens on disarm which is not quite what you report.

Got another working remote? Try it.

P.S. Read the manual - it may be a bit picky about the procedure required to change the battery.

If you do change the battery, press the button for at least 10 seconds after removing old battery and before you install new battery to reset.

According to the handbook the only reason for the indicators failing to blink is a mis-lock. I have checked all the doors etc and all are indeed locked good and tight. All the toggles have retracted into the door trim and the alarm light is flashing inside. I will remove the battery which is a new one this weekend to try and sort this out, and then press the button for ten secs. I only did the 3 quick presses near the car as suggested by the handbook to re-synch. That failed to re-blink the lights. I will update asap. Thanks.

Failed sensor switch on a lock?

On a Disco II mis-lock (or failed switch) would also generate a single short toot of the alarm sounder, does as Disco I do that?

Not sure if the alarm uses the vehicle horn or seperate sounder, so checking the horn works may or may not be valid for the alarm.

Mine also used to occasionally do this. No clue why. Mostly it was the single blink that was missing on mine, but occasionally the three blink also went west. At all times the Disco unlocked and locked and armed the immobiliser (apparently) correctly.

We have however recently replaced/refurbished the main keyfob as it was wearing out

(

)Excellent kit, exactly what it said, just swapped the bits around andit worked without having to synch or any other tomfoolery. ... and we haven't had the issue since, and it's been used a lot in the past couple of weeks. I haven't noticed the blinks being absent either ... ;)

I will have a look at the door switches tomorrow and thanks for the link to ebay. I will as always update.

I have looked at the door switches and they all look OK. They retract into the door and spring out when the doors are open, the bonnet one seems possibly 'sticky'. It is dark now so will have a look in the morning.

Check them with a meter, or you're just guessing whther they are working. They should change from near enough an open circuit to near enough a short circuit to chassis, or vice versa, as they operate.

Mechanical operation is *no* guarantee of electrical functionality, as I've found many, many times. It could even be that they're not earthing correctly due to corrosion between the switch and its mounting points.

Hope this helps.

Another thought after I hit "send".

The visible switches on the door are not necessarily the ones you need to check, they're often just for the interior light, with a feed to the alarm system as well for intrusion detection.

Each door locking motor has a position sensor on it to tell the alarm it's locked, one of these may be defective, and the only ways to check them are to use the dealer's gear or take off the door trim and check them manually using either a meter or by substition.

On or around Sun, 04 Jan 2009 14:24:29 +0000, Dougal enlightened us thusly:

ISTR "battery low" was one long blink instead of 3 short. But that might be one of those variable things.

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Sorry for slow reply, have a dze of Man Flu, so will be back asap. sniff.