fitting shockers

Dec 20, 2003 16 Replies

Quick (and possibly stupid) question.



I've got a set of shiny new shockers to fit to the 110, and I'm wondering if I'm likely to find it easier to put the front ones in by removing the turrets and doing it from above or by taking the springs out and doing it that way. The trap I can see with the first method is that the turret mounting nuts/bolts could well be in a bad way and snap off during the removal process. The trap with the second method is getting the springs out is a bit of effort.



Which way would you do it?



Ta,


Despite the risk of necking the bolts, might be a good opportunity to check the turrets for rust, maybe give them a coat of Hammerite inside and out.

On or around Sat, 20 Dec 2003 10:01:07 +0000, Paul Everett enlightened us thusly:

springs out is easy if you have a big enough jack to get the body high enough so they uncompress fully. I used the engine hoist on mine, chains onto the front bumper and up she goes... Undo the shock bottom end before you get the weight all the way off it.

'course, the easy option is to buy replacement turrets and fixin's, then you haven't got a problem. One of my turrets had to have a new hole welded into the top.

hi-lift plus the adapter into the holes just below the front bumper work well for this one.

aye, i've considered getting some of the tubular ones, but the cost is putting me off.

In which case, I believe David at Llama 4x4 is offering turrets of a superior design to LRs and offering the some of the benefits of the tubular ones. Pretty sure they'd be much cheaper than tubular ones, and more rotproof than LRs ones.

Regards

William MacLeod

In article , Austin Shackles writes

Me Me Me Me!

I'm really good at making holes when I weld things.

Regards,

Simonm.

On or around Sat, 20 Dec 2003 15:30:34 +0000, William MacLeod enlightened us thusly:

or for the cheap option, Paddock et al have pattern ones, no doubt.

On or around Sat, 20 Dec 2003 17:24:57 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig enlightened us thusly:

hehe.

this was precision hole-making though. Invovled welding in a cut-down washer to get the hole back to the right size.

In article , Austin Shackles writes

But my holes have a surprise element to them you don't get in just ordinary holes...

... and I do wish they didn't :(

Regards,

Simonm.

I suppose I ought to pop in at this point and say that mine are galvanised, very heavy duty ( 6mm plate ) and give the added bonus of 1" more axle travel on the front using standard length shock absorbers with no need to adjust the bump stops. At £38 a pair I think we should all have them - but I would wouldn't I?

Another advantage is that the shock can be removed through the side of them rather than having to remove them - this allows you to weld them to the chassis as well as using the 4 1/4" bolts that shear off if you give it some stick - fairly common in Comp Safari situations....

Hope to receive all of your orders soon and Have a great Christmas & New Year....

David LLAMA 4x4

David could you please remind me of your site's URL so that I can have a look at the galvanized turrets?

Do they also lift the car's height or they just add 1" of suspension travel (which I would prefer considering that the rear would not lift)

Take care and best wishes for the Holiday season to everybody on the list Pantelis

Had to do that to a Range Rover to stop the "clunking" noise at the back. I'll never understand how Land Rover managed to drill those oval holes for the suspension bushes :)

Well, predictably enough I now need one new turret mounting ring thing.

The other side was fine though.

The site URL is

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The problem is that the site is now so overdue for a rebuild that it is becoming embarrassing! Needless to say the turrets are not on the site so I will send you a direct email with a picture of the turrets attached.

The turrets do not lift the vehicle at all - they sinply add travel by allowing the axle to drop by 1" more than a std one - with bumpstops left in place the shocker is still safe on the compression stroke aswell giving a clear 1" advantage over std travel.....

Speak to you soon

David LLAMA 4x4

David thanks for the kind reply.

I will be waiting to see the photo.

Take care and again Merry Xmas Pantelis

I assume they just do this by being an inch shorter than a normal one? Do you do any "normal" height ones? I already have +2" shockers and so adding another inch might give me issues with propshafts binding and the springs dislocating (and I don't really want to be forking out for dislocation cones as well).

Pics would be welcome to me too (email to the address in the .sig, not the From:)

Ta, Paul

As you summised they achieve this by being 1" shorter. If you use them with longer shocks the problem comes on the compression rather than drop - a +2" shock is nearer to 3" longer overall and about 1 1/2" longer when compressed. This is already right on the limit of needing to pack the bumpstops so if you fitted the drop turrets you would need to pack your bumpstops by the same amount making the whole fitting of them a bit futile!!!

Yes I have some std length ones ( or at least I will check in the 'shed' ). They are the same construction and price, just std length instead of shorter. I will send you the pics...

David LLAMA 4x4

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