Nah, the oil filter is easy to get to. I'm just having issues with the drain plug. Ol' dad in law said he used a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner to you UKers) to get it off. Why won't mine work! I guess he has gorilla arms when he tightened it last time.
So...swap the filter first with an oiled filter, run the engine briefly for pressure, then change the oil. Got it. Thanks!
Perhaps he meant what we call vice grips or multi grips, sometimes they work on a damaged nut. Crescent spanners are more likely to damage and offer nothing but a compromise for a real spanner and maybe a bit longer handle.
Indeed, just find / beg / borrow / steal / buy the bloody socket that fits.
Ive got a decent large adjustable spanner/wrench which goes tight enough and doesn't have any slop in such that it doesn't seem to round stuff off, and is coping okay with the odd nut/bolt where i've fitted it and knocked it with a hammer or kick to crack it off.
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Nah, the oil filter is easy to get to. I'm just having issues with the drain plug. Ol' dad in law said he used a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner to you UKers) to get it off. Why won't mine work! I guess he has gorilla arms when he tightened it last time.
So...swap the filter first with an oiled filter, run the engine briefly for pressure, then change the oil. Got it. Thanks!
If you do it that way round you immediately gunge up the new filter with old oil. If you change the oil first you can run the engine more than briefly to make sure the pressure is up and, as the filter holds the dirt that's in it, when you do then change the filter, the first oil to pass through it is then cleaner and the filter full of dirty oil is then initially diluted. Just my preference, but it's essential to do both jobs separately and run the engine in between. As Austin says, the size of the hexagon on the plug is an inch and an eighth but if it's buggered up I've got a good one on an old engine on the scrap pile you can have for the postage.
Martin
Any actual dirt should stay in the filter, dissolved pickup and broken down oil would amount to about 2-3% of the new oil. You get a bit of that at the best of times. That against the remaining small possibility of still having the priming problem and losing half a bucket of new oil getting the new filter on. I still like the idea of filter first.
HTF do you manage to lose half a bucket of oil?? Read and absorb the reason for my preferences. IDKWIB.
Martin
My filter screws up to the bottom of the block, all I can gather from your comments is that's yours is easy to get to. Unscrewing mine leaves a virtual drain hole until I can get the new filter onto it - that's why I asked if this is really what I should do. Probably different engines, but going by my manual mine has the same priming issue. Your filter might be higher on the block, though I don't believe I have seen an engine with it higher than the oil level. If that was the case you would be better to change the oil first because taking the filter off first might suck air through the pump.
I don't suppose it matters though so long as you run the engine in between changing the oil and filter, but in different motors or applications, changing the the filter or oil access can be more difficult.
Martin
Well I got it today gents. Thanks for the help. Ended up doing the filter first, so I might have got a bit of crud in the new filter immediately, but whatever.
I tried the same tools today and with my last ounce of strength pulling in that weird position (on my back, half turned to the side...) I was able to crack the drain plug loose. I made sure to not overtighten this time and, according to my finely calibrated arm...I applied about 30 pound feet to the drain plug.
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