Running rough and lack of power

Hey Howard, I'd check the vacuum on the distributor. It would give a similar problem, as the engine will not advance correctly to allow it to give the extra power required for more speed. You know how to test this, I assume.

Gaz

My idea too, i once forgot to put back the advance hose on the dizzy. Gave the same problems...

Roger

"Gaz Pike" schreef in bericht news:dld9sm$i9v$ snipped-for-privacy@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...

It does seem like the vacuum advance is not working but I've tested and it seems ok. The symptoms are similar, but more severe I think.

Any suggestions on how to check air leaks from the manifold? I did not fit it, and apparently it did need tweaking a fair amount to fit properly. Although it was put on in September it's been fine up to now...

Sorry no idea on how to search for leaks on the manifold. Did you check all the bolds and nuts connected to the manifold? The 4 nuts (10mm) on the base of the manifold are pretty difficult to reach (and to be tightened). I'm told once, that if the manifold is frozen cold it is likely that it is clogged, however i'm not sure it is the issue here.

good luck Roger

To test for inlet leaks, get a jar of soapy water and paint it with a brush onto all the joints, one at a time with the engine running. If the idle rises as you apply it, that's your leak.

Gaz

is you accelerator cable opening the carb up fully as sometimes they can slip where they clamp on at the carb...had the same problem ....get someone to put there foot down on the pedal and then check at the carb end and see if the carb has opened fully on the lever..

dave

Hi Howard

May seem stupid but This is how I bought my super cheap. Same symptoms - The HT leads were on in the wrong order. The owner couldnt figuer it out :-) Just check then incase :-)

As for the manifold leak, I seem to remember, you can test by spraying WD40 or similar on the manifold. As the liquid is thiker than air you can tell the difference whilst reving if there is a leak ?

Hope you get it sorted

Rich

Was that after you got the two Minis? You're taking quite a chance dividing your affection in that way. ;-)

I doubt if it's an air leak, as at full throttle there's no significant vacuum in the manifold - well, not compared with idle anyway.

Sounds like you may be losing one or two of the cylinder firings as the rpm rises - that would explain why the pop-pop sounds similar frequency as when rpm is less.

Check the resistance of the rotor arm (5Kohms?) and the leads (1Kohms?) - look for open circuit or inconsistent readings - I assume you have wire leads, not the old carbon filled ones?

Were the plugs all similar colour when you cleaned them? Any sign of misfiring?

Apart from vacuum advance unit, already discussed, you may have a blocked main jet, or possibly a bit of rubber in the needle valve that is restricting flow.

Failing all that, a compression check might be in order, but valve problems would usually give symptoms at idle too.

Have you tried pulling a plug lead at a time, to see if one cylinder isn't doing much?

What about the condenser??

Hey, all good ideas, but have not seen anyone look at the very thing that supplies power. Gas. Look for anything that can limit the amount of gas available......there are many.

dirt, hole in gas line sucking air, do you have a filter in line?, filter in carb?, low pressure, restricted flow for any reason.

Seems to me the symptoms of low power are mostly when you load the engine. Seen similar symptoms when my 356 had a fuel pump problem and simply did not supply the amount of gas needed, when it was really needed.

Something to think about, a lot to check, Joe

F*CK THIS THREAD, AND F*CK YOU ALL ASSHGOLES!

Learn to type dimwit, and learn to fa

WOW what was that all about?

schreef in bericht news:gNJff.7401$ snipped-for-privacy@bignews2.bellsouth.net...

Just a "little troll" who needs guidenance.... to the restroom to wipe his ass...

A real Dimwit

Any clues how to killfile him? He keeps morphing, and I don't want to zap any of the people he's impersonating.

It ran fine until a few days ago. That means "something" happened. Not likely something went out of adjustment. I suspect not getting enough air (check the aircleaner for one of your socks ya thought you lost in the dryer) and even look at the exhaust to see if maybe you backed into something and collapsed the pipe. Pull the gas filler cap off and drive it that way to see if it is a vent problem (unlikely). Any possibility you got some bad gas? Water in the gas? If water, a carb'ed engine should just plain die. You have a cheapie inline fuel filter, I assume? Buy a replacement for it then cut it open with a utility knife and see what's inside... (blow on the intake end first to see how much resistance there is) I suspect fuel / air / exhaust - something suddenly changed to limit the required volume. I do not suspect ignition.

-BaH

I don't use killfiles.

jan

Thanks guys, I think the problem is now solved!

I replace the leads, points, condenser, plugs and rebuilt the carburettor. Still needs slight adjustment as the carb is not set up perfectly yet, but it runs a thousand times better than it did.

I have a feeling the problem was the HT leads (they where 5 years old), but it's nice to replace the lot as it's getting cold!!!

Thanks again :-)

Nice the problem is solved, but we will never know where it was since you replace a lot of stuff at once. May be that?s why, when we put the car on a pro mechanic, they replace everything and we have a big bill to pay ;-

Joao