Galvafriod

I used some of the spray stuff on a bit of the ex-galvanised capping on my 2A and it didnt last very well. The rust came through it within a few months. The tin was older than me and came out of the depths of dads garage though which may have affected it.

I'd be interested too, given that a careless swing of the hammer recently sent said hammer straight through the rear crossmember of my landy.

A quick google for Galvafroid (rather than galvathriod) throws up sommat called Zinga too. I thought that was a Kentucky Fried Chicken thing.

It's very heavy and will settle out in the bottom, you probably didn't shake it enough, IIRC it's got to be applied fairly thickly. The brushing variety in the normal paint tin is good as you can stir it well before use and apply a thick coat. It's expensive too.

Martin

It is effective, but not as good as galvanising by a long shot. To be any better than ordinary paint, it needs to be applied to bright, scrupulously clean metal. Applied over rust, paint or oil, it is no better than any other paint. In use it needs to be continually stirred as the active zinc particles settle out rapidly. I have never tried spraying it, but I would expect all sorts of problems related to the density of the zinc particles. JD

Excellent stuff but as with all paints needs good proper preparation. Sprays ok, just keep it mixed.

On or around Thu, 15 Feb 2007 23:58:24 -0000, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

yes.

it's not the same as galvanising, but it's pretty good.

I painted the bits where I welded some galv sheet to make a wheelbarrow with it, and they've not gone rusty yet.

Galvafroid: Used some on the metal strip round our Marley garage roof three years ago, to cover the spreading rust spots. To date, no breakthrough, but it gets cooked in summer and soggy all winter.

I used the conventional, brush-applied stuff. It was very expensive (around 40UKP for a 2.5l tin I think), and it really does settle out. I stirred it for ages with a drill-driven stirrer.

It's probably extended the life of the garage roof for five years, so IMHO, it's worth the money. It was bought for the Landy, but so far I've only put it on the Towbar plate and struts, where it is working well (but only two seasons so far).

HTH.

Regards,

Simonm.

In article , JD writes

Well it seems to work really well on the Garage roof, which was rather rusty (originally galvanized, if that makes a difference).

I didn't prep it specially, I only wire brushed it a bit by hand, as there are some parts I can't directly reach 'cept with a brush on a long pole. They didn't really get prepped at all but they've done as well as the brushed-shiny bits. I couldn't get the rust off properly everywhere, and again, the 'bad' bits don't seem to have broken through much.

It is breaking down a little in a few spots. When the weather sets fair I'll get the ladder out and have a closer look. It's a shallow sloping sheet metal roof.

Regards,

Simonm.

It worked quite well for me, too many years ago. It gave me the impression of being rather 'soft' and might not hold up where there is any rubbing involved.

Have a look at the Rust-Oleum range also. There are several possibilities there:

scrupulously

You need to pour some into a Heineken can first. :-)

The only difference is galvanising is done hot and Galvafroid is what it says so if you can get it to stick properly I should think it's just as good

Martin

Pretty much - but the galvanising is invariably put on a carefully cleaned bare metal, and if you do this with Galvafroid, it will give similar protection, both partly relying on keeping water away from the underlying metal, the difference being that galvanising does this with a continuous layer of zinc, but Galvafroid relies on what is effectively a conventional paint. Once the layer is breached both protect the underlying metal by galvanic action - and both are equally effective - provided the surface preparation was the same. JD

"JD" wrote ......

That's the point I was making, they *are* just as good, apart from the fact that Galvafroid is not as permanent.

Martin

.....provided you sandblast the surface, degrease it and pickle it in acid - which is the point I was making! As with any paint or other surface protection, at least 75% of the results depends on surface preparation, and in practice, the galvanising is usually put on after much better preparation than is the Galvafroid. JD JD

Just a minor point of order, galvanising can be electroplated as well as hot dip.

I think a point worth noting is Galvafroid won't have any (or little) resistance to mechanical abrasion, remember that it's a paint, not a layer of pure zinc. So if you use it on a vehicle underside then you must give it a few coats of underbody schutz to provide protection.

Julian.

In article , Julian writes

I thought that, however it's doing remarkably well on the braces for the drop-plate under the tank. When I replaced the tank itself, I used underbody paint (but not Schutz though), properly prepped. Big mistake - it's not half as durable as the Galvafroid (both got two good coats, BTW).

I can't fault the concept mind - if you did put Schutz over Galvafroid it ought to last forever.

Incidentally, am I the only one who uses my Schutz gun to spray masonry paint? I find a 4 pint milk container clipped to the handle with a maillion (sp) does the job nicely as a reservoir.

Regards,

Simonm.

SpamTrapSeeSig uttered summat worrerz funny about:

H'mmm it never occured to me to spray the underside with Masonry paint...

;-)

Lee

I was under the impression that any sort of paint (don't know if it's the colour or medium) attacks galvanising, I spray Tectyl wax by Valvoline over the galv. inside and out after thinning it out a bit with white spirit or paraffin, dries almost hard and surface damage heals in the hot weather. I can't see any difference after 10 years, Marsland chassis still like new.

Martin

Galvafroid is a zinc enriched paint isn't it? different from proper galv...

The thing is, with galvafroid, in an area like a wheel arch, damage by flying grit etc will soon perforate it and thus expose the base material to the elements. If Galvafroid was the whole answer then motor manufacturers wouldn't put umpteen coatings of rubberized schutz etc on the underside. (in all but the most aerodynamically quiet areas)

Proper red or white lead paint (not red oxide) is the stuff for steel too. It's difficult to get hold of now - too much chance of a baby chewing the chassis rails of the Landy!

Julian.

In article , Lee_D writes

Serves me right!

But it is pretty tough stuff, and relatively cheap, so you may be on to something...

Regards,

Simonm.