Getting (and keeping) it up...

Hi all,

I just bought got a 1988 110 TD CSW after a bit of searching (prices are shooting up at the moment).

It needs quite a bit of TLC, and it's in having clutch, prop shafts/UJs and gearbox output shaft checked out by experts (Three Shires 4x4 at Swainswick, who specialise in gearboxes). I'm expecting a new clutch and at least one UJ to need doing so there'll be a sharp pain in the wallet at some point...

Anyway, before I dropped it off, I noticed that I don't have a wheelbrace (27mm?) nor a reasonable jack. There is a bottle jack, but it looks too small to be useful without blocks underneath (and pointless if I can't take get the wheel off!). I have a trolley jack, but when I've worked on a friend's 110 before, I found that my 2-ton axle stands didn't fit at all well (Vs at the top too wide). So to the questions:

What's the best type of road-use jack to have and where best to look for it (and a wheelbrace)? Are "proper" Landy axle stands easy to find too?

Finally, is it OK to use axle stands just inboard of the mountings? I've only done what the Haynes manual says in the past (outboard), but then there's little clearance for access to the swivel pin housings, and turning the wheel is difficult. I'm not planning major work, but do want to clean, check oil, underseal, etc.

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig
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Nice choice!

Get a new wheel brace arounf £8 for a cheap one £12 for a so heavy duty one iIt'll never bend.

I'd go for a Hydraulic screw jack from the rangies. Only because they are made for the job. Or take a look at

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who do lots.

As for the axle stands make sure they are as far out as possible for extra stability but I guess you already know that.

Lee D

-- Project Percy - Jaguar 4.2 and Auto in to Series IIa 88 see it @

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101Ambi '76 / IIa - Percy '64 / Rangie TD '90

alt.fan.landrover hall of fame -

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Reply to
Lee_D

On or around Fri, 18 Jul 2003 13:27:00 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig enlightened us thusly:

I found the nicest wheel spanner was a 27mm A/F Diesel Injector socket. These are sold by Draper amongst others, and it works a treat. The deep socket allows you to get the handle nice and perpendicular to the job.

big single-hex thing, deep, 1/2" square drive.

Then get one of those long-handled swivel handles for it, unless you already have one.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Get yourself a 3/4 drive soclet set, check that it has a 27mm soclet in. If you do any maint on you Landy, you'll probably end up with a 3/4 drive set eventually - might as well cut your losses now. I have a £45 Draper set and its more than adequate.

have a look at the high lift jacks, I havent got one of these, but deep down I know that I'll end up with one :-) , no more pratting about laying on your side to see if its located properly while its raining - as you'll only get punctures when its raining or inconvenient!

As for the location of the axle stands, I have put the stands wherever the most convenient place is the task in hand. Ie under the chassis, most places under the axles. Just make sure that it is safe in cased it falls, ie leave the jack under, the stands in place and also put some spare tyres under if you have them spare.

Steve

SpamTrapSeeSig wrote:

Reply to
Steve Nunn

Hi!

On my 90 I use a screw-extendable hydraulic bottle jack placed on a stout wooden block to lift the axle as close to the tyre as poss. If I'm doing anything more than changing a wheel I'll lower the axle onto a stand, placed in-board of the jack, leaving the jack in situ as extra security.

With the standard Land Rover screw-jack, you're in big trouble if the 'official' jacking points, particularly those in the rear crossmember, are at all corroded.

Cheers, RB

Reply to
Prof Rollerball

In article , Prof Rollerball writes

Thanks to everyone who replied - you're a friendly lot!

I'll probably go for the bottle jack plus heavy stands. The main reason is that I can hide the jack in the driver's cubby box, which, in central Bristol, is probably sensible :(

Incidentally, my understanding from the replies is that it's OK to put stands under the axle just inboard of the chassis. I wouldn't normally do this, as I appreciate that getting as wide a distance between the stands is sensible, but to inspect/work on the swivel pin housings it's a sensible place, because the stand doesn't foul the spanners.

I assume half the weight of the engine won't squash the axle housing?

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

Yup....as it's always carrying hat weight anyway you should be fine...unless of course you crush yourself in which case I'm not at all qualified to comment so I can t be sued!!! :-)

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

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