Indicator problems.

I picked up my 110 today after the new engine was fitted, but on the way back I realised that I had no indicators to the left. All indicators work on the hazard switch and right turn is OK.

Is it possible that soething has been disturbed beneath the bonnet when the mechanic was fitting the engine, or is it more likely that the switch has gone? Cheers, John

Reply to
John Stokes
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In message , John Stokes writes

Fuse?

Reply to
hugh

Unlikely as they work in hazard mode...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

hugh uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Have you got a trailer board you can try in the trailer socket? It mak at least let you know the switch is OK.

My money is on a fuse needing a clean up. It's been stood a while hasn't it?

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

On or around Mon, 31 Dec 2007 22:50:29 -0000, "John Stokes" enlightened us thusly:

hazard switch can sometimes cause that, but it normally loses all indicators, not just one side. I don't think there are separate left-right fuses though.

have you visually checked all the lights on hazards?

Reply to
Austin Shackles

If they all work on the hazard switch then my money is on the indicator stalk itself or the wire that goes from the indicator stalk and joins into the left indicator circuit. Not sure where they join - I imagine it is behind the dash somewhere not in the engine bay though so it might just be coincidence it has happenened along with the engine change.

Reply to
Tom Woods

In article , Austin Shackles writes

It sounds like your hazard switch:

The hazard switch wiring is horrible, as is the design of the switch itself. Marge is on her third switch, as the earlier two disintegrated. This one I haven't fully seated as it seems to be more reliable when it isn't in the panel.

There is too much spring pressure for the plastic rocker components, and it's made worse by the fact that the pivot itself needs a microscopic amount of extra clearance in the panel than the apparent rectangle of the switch body. I fitted one of those stainless laser-cut panels (from eBay) a couple of years ago: it did for one of the switches, as the cutout was very slightly too narrow at the pivot (i.e. rectangular!). Solution (requiring a Round Tuit, naturally): notch the panel very slightly either side (with a file or a Dremel) to improve the clearance of the rocker pivot. It's not helped by the plastic used: like the dash itself it depolymerizes with age + sunlight becoming brittle and prone to crack. Combine this with a strong spring inside the switch...

From what I remember it's quite possible for the hazard function to work with a blown fuse, as it's independent of the indicator function, BUT the indicator circuits go through the hazard switch in normal operation. I'm fairly certain you can "jumper" the loom plug on the back of the hazard switch to test it (in other words bypass the hazard switch, allowing you to check the indicators).

It ranks right up there for the "Doh!" wiring award, alongside the TD glowplug arrangements (putting the glowplug current THROUGH the ignition switch!).

I wouldn't bet on the hazard switch, but if your Landy is over a certain age...

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

Hi, Happy New Year, Thanks for all the suggestions. I've come to the conclusion that the problem is probably in the switch itself, as I've tried all the obvious things such as fuses and can't see anything wrong. Anyone who knows my vehicle will know that it's a bit of a mix and match, having started life as a 1985 110, but having been rebuilt from scratch about 11 years ago using a lot of Disco parts. This means that the switch is the later version which incorporates the headlight flasher and horn. Having already replaced the two of the switches on the column I'm planning on taking a trip down the road to Craddocks tomorrow.

I have to say it's bloody frustrating having had the engine sorted only to be grounded by a switch. Cheers, John

Reply to
John Stokes

You could test it with a meter across its plug.

Reply to
Tom Woods

... and could verify the downstream wiring by injecting 12v and seeing if the the results are what you expect.

Reply to
Dougal

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