It wouldn't be realistic to make a few tests with M12 nuts on some studding would it, unless I buried it for a few months ? Having had a real thrutch with the joints on my 101GS, I'd love to have a go, but I need a practice first.
Steve
It wouldn't be realistic to make a few tests with M12 nuts on some studding would it, unless I buried it for a few months ? Having had a real thrutch with the joints on my 101GS, I'd love to have a go, but I need a practice first.
Steve
Try it on any old nuts and bolts, like the man says, it is pretty easy. Just make sure you have decent, clean, dark goggles on, so you can see what is going on, get the nut red, then just give little blips of oxy to burn it, and move the torch away as soon as you see the thread appear. Try to direct the jet of oxy across the edge of the nut, so that it is not pointing at the bolt thread.
But as far as getting track rods free, I subscribe to the no heat theory, use plenty of penetrating oil, or preferably leave the end of the rod immersed in a bucket of diesel overnight, then tap around the outside of the tube to free off. This method does seem to leave the threads in better condition than heating it.
That's a good point but I shouldn't have added the last comment, the idea is to help, not antagonise someone, and for that I apologise.
Martin
On or around Sat, 25 Nov 2006 21:24:51 -0000, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:
I've used heat on them (carefully) and not had any problems with threads. You do have to get it evenly hot and you also have to heat the whole length where the threads are.
I'm not sure that applying huge leverage from a 4ft pipe wrench is any better.
removing the rod, as you said, is a good option but may leave you needing new ends anyway, depending on what tools you have to remove them and whether they come out easily.
I never said use 'huge leverage' and yes if in doubt replace the lot. As a previous poster said, you can't compromise with steering. This is why I don't recommend using anything other than genuine parts.
Martin
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