More series 3 troubles.

If it ran OK for an hour before going off, I'd reckon the timing has slipped or the points have burnt out (bad condenser?). As to the excess heat, sounds like running very weak or ignition badly retarded. Exhaust definately shouldnt glow red. Back to the points/timing again.

HTH DaveP

As Dave says, there's only weak mixture and more likely badly retarded ignition will make the exhaust manifold glow. Double check ignition timing and make sure the distributor clamp isn't loose thereby moving on its own. Could be a restriction in the fuel supply as you said in your previous post with gradual starvation, have you checked tank stand pipe filter or blocked tank breathers? Siezed auto advance in dizzy? Twist rotor arm with fingers to check.

Martin

thanks fellas. i will go and give the ignition system a once over again. one thing that came to me very late, was i had been tuning the motor with a timing gun while its running, assuming that tdc when running is the same as tdc when still (static vs dynamic tuning). this could be part of the problem. i will tune it precisely how the say in the manual and see how it goes.

also, the motor temperature was staying quite low.

Sam.

...

Success at last, and no need for a journey down to the local mechanic. seems you blokes were right from the beginning. i doubted it was an electrical problem, but sure enough you guys were bang on. first it was the points and the condensor, then this morning i worked out it was the vacuum advance. i give it a few revs and no change in the timing, so i found it was an incorrect sized flexible connection on the vacuum advance pipe. put some insulation tape roud it and bingo, problem solved.

Thanks for all the help guys. hopefully i will be able to return the favour at some stage.

Sam.

I'm still learning petrol engines (diesels are much easier!), but i thought that there should be no difference between setting the timing when running at tick over and when the engine is off. Or am i misunderstanding what you are saying?

I've never used a timing gun on a landy engine (ive always set them when the engine is off using a test light, and then wiggling things by ear).

I've used my timing light on my saab a bit though.

G'day tom.

not sure about petrol being easier than diesel, other than the fact that diesels never break down, but when they do there is generally sweet F all you can do about it.

my understanding is that timing a motor dynamically and statically can be quite different. as soon as the engine is spinning, there is a vacuum in the vacuum advance, and the mechanically advance is doing just what its designed to, mechanicaly advance the timing. this can give quite diferrent readings.

the manual says to turn motor by hand till desired timing mark on harmonic balancer, then twist dizzy until point is just opening. this can be quite inaccurate as all cams and joints up the dizzy have a bit of slack and it can be quite hard to see the precise point where the point opens.

anyway, i think i've got it running pretty good now. set timing dynamically (using timing gun with motor idling) and set it to 2degrees BTDC. is this about right for the 2.6 petrol?

Sam.