More Power for 1776

I have just run in my originally a Berg 1776 engine. The engine is a 1776 Berg long block kit put together by a builder in Seattle. However, when the finished long block was assembled with the rest of stuff such as fan shroud, tinware, dizzy, carby,..., etc, he did not put the air deflector in and the entire engine was cooked and the head at cylinder 3 was melted. I then ordered another pair stock 040 heads (using the rocker set from the Berg kit) and another set of 90.5 piston/cylinder set and get another someone else to put the engine back together. It uses a

34PICT3 with the main jet enlarged to 130 and a stock vacuum advanced dizzy. Everything works fine but it feels more like a stock 1600. Is there anything I could do to make it a bit higher performance by doing something like larger valves heads, etc while keep the stock look such as the 34PICT3? Or do I really need to put in a set of dual carb? All opinions are welcome. Regards, Jeremy
Reply to
Jeremy
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Lose the 34 ASAP. That's your bottleneck. Use 40mm Kadrons if you are on a budget, or 40mm dual dellortos or Webers. You won't believe the difference, trust me.

Also teh exhaust system needs to breathe well, if you are still using the stock peashooter type exhaust, yank it out and replace with a header system with the smaller available diameter. You can still use stock heaterboxes with that combo.

Whatever you do, have the carbs adjusted by a pro.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Reply to
Ilambert

those stock heads and carb are killing the power! Dual 40 IDFs and

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(L3s with stock heater boxes, L5s with bigger exhaust) will REALLY wake itup.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

Kadrons will give you what you are after, cheaply.

Reply to
Vanagon Man

Your set up is almost like mine except I have a very mild cam. With Dual 40 Idf you will have all the power you want as long as you add the following.

1:25 rockers, Dual quiet Pacs and Petronix ignition in a 009 Dizzy. However you will always be fighting the hesitation off idle on acceleration plus you got to cut holes in your fender wells to tune the carbs. I took off the 40 Idfs and went back to your set up. 34 Pict3, SVDA with Petronix ignition, 1:25 rockers and Dual Quiet Pac. I found that the 1776 needed the extra exhast flow to breath properly. I have plenty of power and reliable accelleration plus no fooling around with carbs every time I get home. Cheaper too as I am not trying to beat every rice burner on the street. Dual carbs (IDFs) suck lots of gas on accel. Good Luck, James
Reply to
mira4

Please advise what a dual Quiet Pac is, if at all possible. Thanks, Jeremy

piston/cylinder

Reply to
Jeremy

Here's a picture.

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Requires a header with the correct flange. Very quiet setup. I have one on a high-compression 2165 Type 1 and it's almost too quiet. All I hear when I stomp on it is the carburators roaring. It is going bye-bye next Summer for a custom made dual pipe with cherry-bomb mufflers that sit under the fenders and exit in front of the rear wheels.

Reply to
jjs

Following up my own post - I found it best to mount these mufflers to the chassis with heavy springs on the muffler-tabs. Make sure the springs are just strong enough to support the full weight of the mufflers in the mounted position. This lets the mufflers and header move when the engine twists under heavy torque. Even with torque bars they move a little. If you don't use the springs or something to let the header flex, you are virtually mounting the engine via the header and something might give, likely an exhaust port stud or flange. If you don't use torque bars, then it's even worse. Just IMHO, of course.

Reply to
jjs

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