Is there an easy way of getting these off a 90, without mangling them. They're in nice condition at the moment and proper land rover ones, but they won't stay that way if I go trialing with them still on there.
The bolts, front and back, seem to go through into the totally inaccessable area of the out-rigger or rear x-member (which I now find is full of damp mud). I'm about to try trimming the bolt heads off with the angle grinder but is there a better method?
If I did want to put them back on I don't see any way of getting a spanner to the nut in the box section. Do Land Rover put the mud flaps on before assembling the rest of the vehicle??
"McBad" wrote in news:wfydnboD_ snipped-for-privacy@brightview.com:
Can't help with a dainty way to get them off as my favourite tool is the angle grinder.
But here is what I did to bolt on new mud flaps after I'd replaced the rear cross member on my D90.
Get a piece of mild steel wire (about 1.5mm diameter, but I'm guessing) about 15 inches long and bend a sharp U in the end that will accept a 6mm (?) bolt without slipping. Turn the wire through 360 degrees to make sure your wire has a firm enough grip so the bolt will not slip out.
Lightly oil the bolt threads and make sure the nut is a smooth and easy fit. Insert wire and bolt into open end of cross member and manipulate it so the threaded end drops down through the hole.
Offer up your mud flap support bracket, insert bolt through hole and gently put the nut on a few turns. It helps if you use a finger to push the threaded part sideways, jammed against the hole in the cross member, to stop the bolt going back inside. Now pull the wire out so it pulls off the head of the bolt leaving the threaded end still in the hole, held by the nut.(That's why you need firm but flexible wire).
If you lose a bolt inside the X-member, just pull it out with another piece of wire with a 90 degree bend in the end.
Putting sideways pressure on the bolt with your finger will stop it turning in the hole sufficiently so you can gently tighten the nut. Finally, tighten down after you have all the bolts in position applying sideways pressure if necessary. Friction at the cross member should be enough to allow you to get the nut on securely. I achieved a good tight torque on four new bolts using this method without too much trouble.
Thanks. Doesn't look as if there is any alternative to the angle-grinder to get them off. I'll worry about putting them back on when I come to sell the vehicle, if ever. There must be other places to use your trick with the wire though.
Solution 1: Drill or punch them out. Replace with replacements from your dealer - readily available. If necessary, try to get a slightly larger size. Called "rivenuts" or blind nuts.
Solution 2: Drill or punch them out. Pop into your nearest B&Q (or whatever) and visit the hardware section. There you will find a (Rawlplug I think) product which consists of a compressible rubber plug with a bolt. Enlarge your holes as necessary, fit rubber thingie, attach mudflap (probably using large washers as the bolt is quite small on the fitting). Problem solved.
Finally got round to this this evening; had to resort to the angle grinder for all four as the bolts just rotated without undoing. Discovered the only bits of my chassis that are rusty are the bits that have been 'protected' by the mud flaps.
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