Not posted for ages....and a question about clutches on series vehicles

Jun 10, 2007 8 Replies

It's been a while since I posted on this newsgroup...June 2006 I think! How is everyone and anything interesting happened at all I should know about? Still got four land rovers, three motorbikes, a couple of quads, a caravan, four kids plus various pets and Bruce - who is now a Grandad after his oldest daughter Rachel had a baby boy last week (11lbs30z) and is now known as Grumps.



The return of warmer weather has meant that the canvas roof has come off the Lightweight, and after passing its MOT first time, is now our main mode of transport - this is mainly due to the looks of dismay and protests of how "embarrassing" it is to be seen in "that trampy thing " apparently it scores the same as being dropped of somewhere in the Discovery (outside school is best) with the cd player turned up v.loud to the sounds of the Muse, Green Day, AC/DC or the dreaded Metallica.



As I was saying, the lightweight has a problem with the clutch pedak sticking down on occasion and doesn't seem to want to return all the way up, without a little help from a toe. Bruce says he has replaced the spring and has a couple of other things he plans to check, but time being what it is and him not having enough hours in the day, would like to know if anyone has any ideas on what to look for first.



Nikki



When the pedal sticks down is the clutch engaged or disengaged? If it's engaged then it's one of the hydraulic cylinders (most probably master cylinder) letting fluid bypass the seals.

Hi Nikki - nice to see you back.

hi nikki!

i had one similar to this a couple of months ago. s3. clutch pedal went down fine but took ages to come back up - you could help it slightly with your toe if so inclined. . We replaced the master cylinder (and a dodgy looking flexy pipe too) and it fixed it.

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It's engaged. This is one of the things that Bruce mentioned to me the other day.

Thanks

He says that's what he thinks it is too. Just wanted to confirm it. Thanks

On or around Sat, 09 Jun 2007 21:38:33 -0700, nikki_cluley enlightened us thusly:

Master cylinder, I betcha, if it's intermittent. Not worth repairing 'em, replacements are cheap. And it's easier to unbolt the pedal box and remove it to change the f***er.

just possibly slave, but my money'd be on the master. If it sticks too much then the bite point will gradually get lower.

'course, there's always the possibility of a sticky pivot, but I'd expect that to happen all the time.

when replacing the cylinder, adjust the pushrod so that when the pedal is fully up there's a tad of free play. Bascially, pedal-fully-up should correspond more or less exactly with push-rod-fully-extended, in particular you need to avoid having the pushrod *not* fully extend.

Hi Austin

Will pass the information on to Bruce. Thanks

Nikki

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