one for the ZF gurus...

Because it drinks like a fish because you only drive "in" the torque converter and the box wont shift down. It never leaves the 4th gear unless you get extremely slow.

Tighten the kickdown cable a bit, you will get later shifts, try as long as you are satisfied. I did this on my Range and am most satisfied now when it shifts a little bit later than it should.

Raoul

I had a similar problem with one of my Range Rovers. Adjustment of the kickdown cable is critical and cured everything when I finally got it right. There appears to be a part throttle position which effectively changes the shift pattern if the kick down cable is incorrectly adjusted. You will need to refer to the relevant Land Rover manual for the correct adjustment for your application.

Austin, Has your kickdown cable got a little crimp thingy on it (engine end)? If so, according to the manual the gap between the crimped collar and the end of the outer cable should be between .25 and 1.25mm. Richard

On or around Thu, 18 Sep 2003 16:12:09 +0200, das_liest snipped-for-privacy@don-moto.at (Raoul Donschachner) enlightened us thusly:

nah, it's shifting too late already. it would need slackening, and that would mean it wouldn't ever get full kickdown.

but it doesn't stay in 4th, 'cos you can shift it manually. In fact, it's very like a clutchless manual. on the flat, it pulls off at moderate throttle and upshifts OK if a little early, without the kickdown cable connected. for more acceleration, pull it back to 3 or 2.

On or around Thu, 18 Sep 2003 15:11:39 +0000 (UTC), "TRH" enlightened us thusly:

aye, it is. but adjusting this one the same as the previous box made it plain silly, and adjusting it back 'til it only just gets full kickdown at full throttle only partially cured it.

On or around Thu, 18 Sep 2003 18:58:16 GMT, "Richard" enlightened us thusly:

it looks to have moved.

This is just for the manual correct and not for used boxes in real life. For me, I now have about a centimeter distance and it now works perfect. Besides the knocking sound when the oil gets warm...

Raoul

So, forgetting how it was adjusted and how you have now adjusted it, have you actually tried adjusting it as per the correct Land Rover procedure??? Thats what I did and it cured everything.

On or around Fri, 19 Sep 2003 10:55:06 +0000 (UTC), "TRH" enlightened us thusly:

yeah, well, you know how it is...

but seriously, I don't think the little collar on the cable is in the right place, seeing as it's right up against the end of the cable.

I've re-connected it and tweaked the adjustment this morning, which has improved it quite a lot, and so far I've not had to rebuild the linkage again.

On or around Fri, 19 Sep 2003 14:08:06 +0100, Austin Shackles enlightened us thusly:

and after running around in it, I reckon it's close enough. shifts seem OK now, it might be a tad on the keen side about changing down, but that's not a major problem, as the engine doesn't really seem to pull well at converter-stall speed, about 1800-2000 revs.