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Steering Box replacement

As I said in an earlier thread, due to a leaking steering box my 110 is not so much marking its territory, but leaving a trail so that it can find its way home!

Hopefully, courtesy of Richard I will have a recon steering box with me tomorrow and I hope to fit it tomorrow night.

I have looked at the Haynes manual and have one simple question. They reccomend marking the joint between the UJ on the steering column and the steering box. Now as I am replacing the box I can't see the point. I don't even see the point in worrying too much about alignment, I assume that is only done to make sure that the steering wheel is in the correct orientation when going straight (and that can be sorted by taking the steering wheel off anyway!)

So, am I missing something or do I just remove the old box, disturb as little as possible, install the new box go through the bleeding procedure, but if the steering wheel is awry when I've finished, just remove it and realign it?

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter
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Maybe the LR workshop manual can give you a little more insight:

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Reply to
eric

The link doesn't work (for me anyway!)

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

It works for me. What message do you get when trying it?

Reply to
eric

You'll need to "centre" the steering, by going from one lock to the other and counting the turns - it's best to get it right without taking the wheel off as you can end up with more lock one way than the other, and you can get wear on the drivers side tyre. Also, the self

-cancelling for the indicators relies on the things being about right.

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

OK, I've checked, it's the company "IT Police" blocking it. I'll have a look at home tonight.

Thanks

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

Indicators won't cancel if the steering is incorrectly aligned. There's usually a good reason for following recommended procedures.

Reply to
Peter

Thanks.

I wasn't querying the procedure, just that it seemed silly to mark the old steering box and UJ up when I was replacing the steering box!

What I needed to understand what why it was being marked (and Haynes don't tell you that).

What I shall do is make sure the new output shaft is (as far as possible) in the same physical position as the one I have taken out.

That should be close enough to start with, then I can fine tune it by the number of turns of the wheel from lock to lock.

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

Mine has been "uncentred" since I bought it. Whilst we're on topic, an idiots guide of how to correct it would be appreciated.

David

1986 RR
Reply to
rads

Turn the wheels to full lock one way, then to the other counting the truns on the steering wheel. In theory, the steering wheel should be "level" and the wheels point straight ahead half-way between the two.

If it isn't, then one or more of the following has happened: If the road wheels are straight ahead, but the steering wheel is not, then he steering wheel has been off at some stage and not put back on in the right orientation, OR (quite likely) the drag link Track Rod End (TRE) has been replaced, but not been adjusted (by turning) to get the steering wheel right.

Or it coudle be that the steering box has been replaced an not set up right, or the steering shaft UJ's have been replaced and the positioning lost.

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

Two additions, perhaps, at the beginning:

Jack the front end up so that both wheels are off the ground. It'll be easier for you.

Check the lock stop bolts at the swivels for equal protrusion or for equal distance between tyres and chassis when on each full lock. Equalise before going any further.

Reply to
Dougal

snip

It worked nicley at home. Although I'm glad I've got broadband!

Most illuminating. Printed off and ready to go for tonight!

Cheers

Peter

Reply to
puffernutter

On or around Tue, 14 Mar 2006 01:57:25 -0800, "eric" enlightened us thusly:

which Rave is it? I've got a CD one, but that's range-rover, disco and freelander.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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