pre-load on swivels S3

You can take the floor out if you drill out the rivets / spot welds depending on what yours has.

We took this approach but didn't need to remove it all on Sis 109 as we were only replacing the rear crossmember.

In cour case as we folder the floor upwards cuts had to be made in the floor braces to allow for the flex.. These can then be plated over at a later time once refitted with ally and rivets if you so desire.

Lee D

Thanks Lee, that helps a lot to see pictures. I can see I might be able to get away with a small patch but seeing underneath from on top ( if you see what I mean ) helps with preparation.

Cheers

Paul

No, you add shims at the top only. A swivel pin kit from Bermach already contains a set of shims, which should be sufficient. According to the manual you should start with 40thou of shims in it, and work up or down from there untill the correct pull of 12 to 14lb is obtained. (From the hole for the track rod, not the drag link) Note that it is

12-14lb to continue to move the swivel, not to get it to start to move. Also, don't do it with the swivel seal fitted.

Alex

Thanks Alex, you'll have to forgive my ignorance, does that mean you start with 40 thou top and bottem and then only add or subtract from the top?

Thanks

Paul

No, just 40thou at the top. The adjustments are done at the top for practical reasons. 40 thou is just the reccomended starting point, you could need more or less.

Alex

Thanks Alex. The old shims had been trashed by a previous owner. I put

40thou at the bottom and started at 40thou at the top. worked my way down on shims until the correct pre-load was reached. It's all OK now.

Thanks

Paul