its not the same as the 2.25LR starter if that helps (cos i tried to fit one of them when it broke but it had the wrong no of teeth). It has a horizontal exhaust. I assume its the sherpa original.
proper battery rating for a 2.5 n/a D?
Jan 12, 2008
31 Replies
You might also find it makes a surprising difference.
Alex
A FSD of 500A would be a pretty good start, and if the starter is knackered it could draw all that and more.
I'm unfamiliar with wot goes before the meter in the UK, but assuming it's similar to NZ then it's nowhere near heavy enough.
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would be a good starting point. It's cheap and well up to the job.
Have you checked the earth link, engine to chassis, chassis to battery. Take them off and make sure they clean. Also crimped ends can give a problem. They become loose over time and it's not obvious. Learnt the hard way of course :-(
Generally either 15mm^2 or 25mm^2 but double insulated, normally grey PVC over black or red.
And twice the CSA of 25mm^2 mains meter tail. May appear to have similar OD to 25mm meter tails but the double insulation is quite thick. Weld cable is single insulated, thus comparativly thin.
Much the same as here - generally 16mm^2 for domestic.
35mm^2 is generally ample, but for the slight extra cost it's worth the move to 50mm^2
Ive gone for 40mm^2 on my other motors:
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Is it really worth an extra £2/m to step up to 60mm^2?. Rated for 415 amps rather than 300. 40mm^2 at 300 should be plenty should it not?
I didnt realise the domestic stuff was lower rated. From what i can find it looks like it could be 25mm^2 or 35mm^2.
It is not double insulated and is in red/black PVC. Slightly larger OD than normal battery cable but fewer larger diameter cores inside it. Came out of dads garage as (presumably - he thought) left overs from having an extension built and meter moved/house rewired back in the mid
80's..
No, because "rating" is about maximum insulation temperatures under constant running. What you are worrying about is voltage drop under load, which is current x Resistance/unit length x length.
Steve
engine to chassis is new. I'm gonna replace the other ones when i do the other battery leads!
ends are crimped and then soldered so they should be good..
Using 40mm welding cable the DC voltage drop per metre is approximately
1mV per A. At 60mm it's approximately 0.6mV/A.On or around Tue, 15 Jan 2008 19:05:41 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:
supposing the starter to draw 300A, you get 0.3V drop, then, per meter. The main lead battery-solenoid in my 110 with the V8 (starter on the "other" side) from the battery under the passenger seat is no more than 2m, for a voltage drop of 0.6V.
I'd say that for normal vehicles, the 40mm² is going to be good enough.
ISRT mine was done from a dead 25mm² jump lead, which is a bit light but it copes OK with the V8 starting current, which is probably a bit less.
0.3V is generally accepted[1] as the maximum permissable voltage drop in the +ve starter feed, hence my recommendation to use a larger cable. [1] ICBA finding a cite, but it's summat that was hammered into me many years ago during my apprenticeship.
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