Re: Headlight adjustment on RR Classic

Hi Austin

I've saved your post for future use but it arrived too late to be of help as I was already off to town in the RR ..... :-(

But not to worry cos it passed the retest :-))

I adjusted the lights by finding dark multi story car park, stopped about 8 feet from end wall and then adjusted both lights until they were at a similar level.

MoT guy liked what he saw so we passed.

Had an interesting chat with him about swivel pins in Defender/RR/Disco as the upper swivel bearing had gone in mine which was one of the original fail points - he reckons that he sees a lot of LR products in with failed swivel bearings and thinks it is due to water getting into the swivels - possibly even just a build up of condensation. Surprise, surprise he doesn't get it with Series Landies as (1) no upper bearing (2) the pin is a lot more substantial (3) EP90 rather than swivel grease - that's his theory in any case

Graeme

On or around Fri, 25 Jul 2003 09:05:19 +0100, "Graeme" > enlightened us thusly: > > >Pants! Haynes BoL and RR Manual no help here.... > > > >The headlight adjustment on my 1989 Classic RR is out sufficiently to > >be another fail point in the MoT. I'd like to adjust them and

thought

>there was a diagram in Haynes BoL (I'm sure there used to be - was > >that an older edition?) > > > >Has anybody got the measurements needed to adjust the lights (as far > >as I recall you park at right angles to a wall perpendicular to the > >ground and then measure out various distances to get the beams

aligned

>correctly) > > park it on level ground, about 10 feet away from a wall. Mark a line on the > wall at the height of the centre of the lights, mark the lateral position of > the lights, (fun and games lining the vehicle up with this :-)) and then the > main beams should point at the marked positions. You can mark the width of > the vehicle, and sight along the sides, to line it up. sort of like this: > > ______edges of vehicle____ > / \ > v v > -----------|-----|----------------|-----|--------------- > ^ ^ > \headlamp centres\ > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > > if you want to get technical, there should be somewhere on the

vehicle

(under front of the bonnet) a little square white label with a

number like

1.2, or 1.5, or such. This is the dipped beam setting, which IIRC is the > gradient in % of the dipped beam - to calculate this, park the

vehicle so

the front is a known distance from the wall. The distance of the horizontal > part of the dipped beam below the centre line marked on wall is the > percentage of the distance from the wall. If you do

distance-from-wall in

meters, then multiply that by the relevant number and it's in cm. > > e.g. for 1.5, at 10m, it'd be 1.5*10=15cm. > > > -- > Austin Shackles.
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my opinions are just that > Too Busy: Your mind is like a motorway. Sometimes it can be jammed by > too much traffic. Avoid the jams by never using your mind on a > Bank Holiday weekend. > from the Little Book of Complete B*
**ocks by Alistair Beaton.
Reply to
Graeme
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On or around Fri, 25 Jul 2003 18:01:28 +0100, "Graeme" enlightened us thusly:

most RRs etc have EP90 though, 's only quite recently that the grease has come on the scene.

I suspect most of 'em fail due to the oil all leaking out and not being replaced.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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